How to Stop Your Dog From Begging at the Table

How to Stop Your Dog From Begging at the Table

What happens when you walk into a house and encounter the delicious aroma of your favorite home-cooked meal or freshly baked cookies? You probably gravitate toward the kitchen without even thinking about it, especially if you’re hungry. Because most dogs enjoy the same kinds of foods that we do, it’s not surprising that they’re drawn to good smells, too. However, many pet parents don’t like it when they sit down at the table to eat and find themselves under the intense scrutiny of their hopeful, droolingdogs.

You can’t really blame your dog for begging at the table. But if you’d like to change her behavior, you can do so by using one or both of the following tactics:

1. Prevent begging by controlling your dog’s access to the table.
2. Teach your dog to do something else instead, such as lying down and staying on a mat or bed.

Prevent the Problem

Sometimes it’s easiest to solve a problem by preventing it from happening. If you’d rather your dog leave you alone while you eat, you can use a baby gate to confine her to another room when you sit down for a meal. Or, if your dog is crate trained, you can put her in her crate while you eat. (Please see our article on Weekend Crate Training to learn how to teach your dog to happily relax in a crate.) To keep her busy and quiet, try giving your dog a chew bone, her dinner or a KONG® toy stuffed with something delicious. (Please see our article on How to Stuff a KONG Toy to learn more about using food puzzle toys.)

If you’d like your dog to stay in the same room with you but refrain from loitering right next to the table or drooling on your shoes, you can use a tether to keep her in her own space. Attach a short leash or tether (four- to six-feet long) to a heavy piece of furniture or an eye-hook in the baseboard. (You can buy a length of chew-proof plastic-coated wire with a clip on each end at most pet stores.) Put a soft bed or mat next to the tether. Before sitting down to eat, lead your dog to her comfy spot, and attach the leash or tether to her collar. Then give her something to chew or a stuffed KONG. After you finish your meal, you can release her from the tether. As long as you give your dog a tasty treat of her own to work on while you eat, she’ll enjoy settling in her special spot during mealtimes. (A word of caution: Do not leave your dog unattended while she’s tethered. She could get tangled in the tether and injure herself.

Teach Your Dog to Go to Her Spot and Stay

If you don’t want to confine your dog in an area away from the table or use a tether to restrain her, you can teach her to go to a designated spot, usually a bed or a mat, and stay there. This skill can be useful in a variety of other situations, too. If you’re watching a movie with friends and you’d like your dog to occupy herself for a while, you can ask her to go to her spot and chew a bone. If your dog jumps up on people when they come to the door, you can ask her to go to her spot whenever the doorbell rings and wait there to greet visitors. If you take your dog somewhere with you, you can bring her bed or mat and have her settle on it when you need her to be calm and quiet.

Additional Tips and Troubleshooting

• If you don’t want your dog to beg at the table, don’t give her tidbits from your plate. If she sometimes scores a delicious morsel when she barks, whines and stares at you while you eat, she’ll diligently try those tactics whenever you sit down for a meal.
• Some people worry that feeding their dogs “people food” (anything except dog food and treats made for dogs) will encourage begging at the table. But when teaching a dog new skills or treating certain behavior problems, using high-value treats, like small pieces of chicken, cheese or hotdog, can accelerate the training or treatment process. Luckily, dogs can learn very specific rules. It’s okay to give your dog foods you eat, too. Just avoid feeding her from the table so she learns that she never gets anything in that context.
• If your dog asks for handouts by barking or whining when you eat, please see our articles on Barking and Whining for additional help.
• Avoid yelling at your dog if she begs at the table or barks for food while you’re eating. Giving her attention of any kind-even if it’s negative attention-might actually convince her to keep begging. Instead, try giving your dog a time-out. Before you sit down to eat, attach a lightweight leash to her collar. Let the leash drag on the floor. The instant your dog barks or starts to whine, quickly take hold of her leash and lead her to a time-out area. (A dog-proofed room of any kind will work fine. Just make sure there’s nothing fun in the area-no toys, no chews, no people to play with. Time-out should be entirely boring.) When you get to the time-out area, tether your dog to a heavy piece of furniture or use a baby gate to confine her. Then go back to the table. After a minute or two, you can release your dog from the time-out area. Repeat this procedure every time your dog starts to whine or bark for food. If you’re consistent, she’ll learn that begging results in banishment-far away from the thing she wants most!

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Dog Whisperer Training Methods

What Is A Dog Whisperer?

A dog whisperer is somebody who has developed a high level of awareness and understanding of the mind and natural instincts of the canine species. This allows human and dog to form a deep connection free of the many constraints humans normally put in the way.

Because us humans and our dogs are a different species we often encounter difficulties in communicating effectively with each other. We can't just sit down with them and have a conversation over a nice cup of coffee, like we would with our human friends. But what can we do? I'll get into that a little later, but you could say that being a dog whisperer means that you have broken down these barriers of communication and have developed a very real form of two way communication with dogs. A dog whisperer realigns his/her methods of communication so that it matches up with and is relevant to dogs.

Unfortunately the majority of human-dog relationships in this world are one way, lopsided affairs. It's usually us humans endlessly issuing commands or reprimanding our dogs, seemingly oblivious to what our dogs are actually feeling and trying to communicate to us. Look at it this way - think of a very dominant, overbearing person you have come across in your own life (in my case it was a boss I had a few years back). This person probably doesn't care much for how you are feeling and what your thoughts are. They just want to get their message across to you and tell you off when you don't reach their standards. When you do try to do or say something they fail to acknowledge your attempts or simply ignore you. How do you feel? frustrated.., helpless.. and probably much worse. I believe many of our dogs live in this type of restrictive environment every day. Our dogs are constantly reaching out and trying to communicate with their human family, but somehow it seems to go unnoticed or at least misinterpreted.

The thing is our dogs are continually speaking to us in their language. They communicate with us (and each other) through various means using energy, body language, scent, facial expression, the movement of ears and tail, overall posture and voice (barking, growling). As you can see, most of these signals or expressions are non verbal where's humans communicate in a mainly verbal manner. What a dog whisperer does is acknowledge the difference between human and dog. A dog whisperer takes a step back, shuts up, observes and understands these gestures our dogs continue to express to us. When you do this you can't help but form a deep connection with your dog as you will understand his wants and needs and therefore can respond in a manner which is appropriate to the situation, and is expected by your dog. You are communicating, your dog to you, and you to your dog - instead of merely issuing and enforcing an order and having your dog "do something for you".

When we are in this position of understanding our dogs it's only logical that we are better placed to address their problems and shape their behavior. A dog whisperer treats a dog as a dog, not as a fluffy four legged human. They respect a dog for what it is and work with mother nature and the natural instincts of the canine species. Sadly most dogs aren't afforded this same respect and level of understanding. Many well intentioned "dog lovers" smother their dogs with affection and the best of everything (toys, treats, fancy beds etc.) but this is not what dogs actually crave. A dog whisperer will provide the species specific, very real needs of the dog so they can live a fulfilling, peaceful, happy and well balanced life.

Picture this all too common scenario. You arrive home from a hard day at the office to find that your beloved dog has once again chewed up the cushions that were nicely decorating the sofa. You're angry. In a raised voice you swear at him/her and tell him how disappointed you are. You then throw your shoe at him as you bend down to pick up the mess. As you are blowing off steam your dog is avoiding you, head down low, eyes looking up almost sheepishly, with tail firmly tucked between his hind legs.At this point many dog owners look at their dog and say "look at the little bugger, he knows what he's done wrong, just look at how guilty he looks". This is the wrong conclusion to make. Your dog doesn't think like that (like a human) and he doesn't have a clue what you are rambling on about. He makes no connection between the chewed up cushions and your mood.
Dogs live in the present moment, so what he is picking up on and reacting to is your angry energy, raised voice and threatening body language. He may have also learned what the consequences are when you arrive home in this type of mood - he was probably waiting for the shoe to come his way! This scenario is an example of how us humans and our dogs view the very same situation from an entirely different perspective. Dog whispering is about understanding and recognizing that these differences exist, then acting accordingly.

Who Is The Dog Whisperer?

Many dog trainers and dog behaviorists around the world have attached the "Dog Whisperer" tag to their names. The most prominant ones are Cesar Millan who has a great TV series "Dog Whisperer" on the National Geographic Channel, Paul Owens who has a brilliant book and DVD titled "The Dog Whisperer - a compassionate, nonviolent approach to dog training". Then there is John Richardson from Australia whose book "The Dog Whisperer" is also a beauty. You'll probably find someone who practices dog whispering in your area too. If you'd like to learn how to use dog whispering techniques in your own training I suggest this great resource - dogproblems.com
How Do You Integrate Dog Whispering Techniques Into Dog Training?

When you open up the lines of communication with your dog, it can't help but impact on the entire relationship and bond you share. The advantage of utilizing dog whispering techniques in your training is that you create an environment where your dog chooses to work with you and doesn't feel intimidated or forced to perform under the threat of violence. Dog whispering in a training context is motivational, non violent and based on repetition and positive reinforcement. In many ways it replicates how dogs interact with each other, working with mother nature and with the natural instincts and drives of the dog. It's a give and take process, just like any functional, working relationship. In practical terms a dog whisperer uses observation skills, watches, listens, identifies, interprets and develops an understanding of the dogs actions, feelings and needs. He/she also uses energy, voice in a soft tone, subtle movements (body language) and scent - in a consistent, reliable manner. You can be sure that the dogs involved will be studying and picking up on all of these gestures, regardless of how subtle they may appear to be.

Can Anyone Be A Dog Whisperer?

Yes. Like anything there will be some people who are better at dog whispering than others. It certainly can be learned though. Dog Whispering is not hocus pocus or voodoo, it is there for anybody to see/do if you just take the time and effort. You can start right now by really studying your own dog, watching other dogs interact with each other at the park and if possible, monitoring a skilled dog trainer at work. If you are interested in learning more about dog whispering, dog psychology and how to apply it in your dog training I'd highly recommend "The Dog Whisperer - A compassionate, nonviolent approach to dog training" by Paul Owens. If you read this book and watch the lessons in Paul's DVD of the same name you will have all the tools you need to become a dog whisperer. Another good resource for people wishing to learn how to think and act like a dog whisperer is Secrets Of A Professional Dog Trainer.

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5 steps to stop dog chewing

Inappropriate chewing is a fairly common problem in young dogs and stems from the fact that puppies use their mouths as a means of exploring the world around them. Chewing is a normal behavior for puppies but becomes undesirable behavior when it is directed towards inappropriate objects such as your shoes, furniture, or even your hands and feet. If inappropriate chewing is not corrected then it can lead to wide scale destruction of personal property, medical problems and erosion of the human-animal bond.

A dog’s deciduous teeth will erupt between three to eight weeks of age and around four to six months of age these teeth will be gradually replaced with permanent teeth. Teething is a painful process and puppies chew more during this period of time because their gums are very irritated during this time and the act of chewing relieves their discomfort. Inappropriate chewing is most likely to occur while the puppy is teething but if not corrected can become a long standing problem even after all the adult teeth emerge and teething ends.

Here are the five steps you should take to correct inappropriate dog chewing before it becomes a problem:

1. Rule out medical problems. The first step is to make sure that your puppy does not have any serious medical problems. Nutritional deficiencies caused by poor diet and/or intestinal parasitism can lead to pica which may be misconstrued as inappropriate chewing. Gastrointestinal problems may cause nausea which can trigger chewing as a coping mechanism. Therefore it is important to make an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out an underlying medical condition that may be causing or contributing to the dog chewing.

2. Puppy proofing. Look around your environment for possible dangers to your inquisitive puppy. Place household cleaners and chemicals out of reach along with potentially toxic plants. Electrical cords should be covered or made inaccessible to prevent chewing on them resulting in electrocution. Remove objects of curiosity that might appeal to your puppy such as shoes and socks, children’s toys and the like. Block access to rooms that have not been puppy proofed and consider crate training your dog for the times when he cannot be supervised.

3. Encourage appropriate chewing. Provide appropriate chew toys for your dog to enjoy. Each dog will have their own personal preference as to what they prefer to chew and play with. Be careful with rawhide and beef bones as determined chewers can whittle them down to smaller pieces that can be swallowed. They can end up becoming lodged in the esophagus or small intestine so supervision is recommended when giving these treats and be sure to take away any small pieces that might be swallowed. Avoid chicken bones since they splinter easily creating sharp fragments that can easily puncture your dog’s gastrointestinal tract. I prefer nylabones, greenies and dental chewsticks since they encourage appropriate chewing while combating dental disease. Dog toys such as balls and kongs may appeal to your dog, just be sure to select a size that is appropriate for your dog. They should be able to pick it up and carry it but it should be of sufficient bulk that it cannot be swallowed. If you buy your dog a kong type toy check, make sure the hole in the toy is not so big that the dog can get his lower jaw stuck in it.I have seen several emergency cases where a dog comes in with a toy stuck in his mouth. Do not give toys that resemble inappropriate items; for example do not give your dog an old shoe to chew on because he will not know the difference between the old chew shoe and a brand new pair.

4. Discourage inappropriate chewing. By following step two you will have already minimized the amount of mischief your young dog can get into. If you do find your dog chewing on something inappropriate correct the dog by taking the object away and scolding him. Direct his attentions to an appropriate chew object and give praise when he chews on said object. Gradually, your dog will learn what objects are his and which are not. Sometimes it can be difficult to discourage chewing if the pattern is already established. Taste deterrents such as bitter apple can applied to the object, the noxious taste will hopefully deter the determined chewer and he will learn to leave the object alone.

5. Engage in playtime with your dog. A tired dog is a good dog! Spend time playing and exercising with your dog on a regular basis. This not only reinforces the human-animal bond but expends energy that your dog might be otherwise directed to inappropriate chewing and behaviors.

By Dr. Kristy Conn

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10 Common Dog Behavior Problems

Most experienced dog owners are familiar with common dog behavior problems, but some may wonder why dogs exhibit these behaviors. Barking, biting, chewing and many other common dog behaviors are often misunderstood and mishandled by dog owners. Perhaps you are new to dog ownership, considering getting a dog, or just wish to better manage your dog's behavior problems. Thoroughly understanding the most common dog behavior problems is the first step to solving and preventing them. A solid foundation of obedience training will help you prevent or better control common dog behavior problems.

1.  Barking

Most dogs bark, howl and whine to some degree. Excessive barking is considered a behavior problem. Before you can correct barking, determine why your dog is vocalizing in the first place. These are the most common types of barking:

• Warning or Alert
• Playfulness/Excitement
• Attention-seeking
• Anxiety
• Boredom
• Responding to Other Dogs

Be consistent and patient. Also, consider teaching the Bark/Quiet Commands. Dedication and attention to detail can go a long way.

2.  Chewing

Chewing is a natural action for all dogs; it's just a part of the way they are wired. However, chewing can quickly become a behavior problem if your dog causes destruction. The most common reasons dogs chew are as follows:

• Puppy Teething
• Boredom / Excess Energy
• Anxiety
• Curiosity (especially puppies)

Encourage your dog to chew on the right things by providing plenty of chew toys. Keep personal items away from your dog. When you are not home, keep your dog crated or confined to an area where less destruction can be caused. If you catch your dog chewing the wrong thing, quickly correct him with a sharp noise. Then, replace the item with a chew toy. One of the most important things you can do: make sure your dog gets plenty of exercise

3.  Digging

If given the chance, most dogs will do some amount of digging; it's a matter of instinct. Certain breeds, like Terriers, are more prone to digging because of their hunting histories. In general, most dogs dig for these reasons:

• Boredom or Excess Energy
• Anxiety or Fear
• Hunting Instinct
• Comfort-Seeking (such as nesting or cooling off)
• Hiding Possessions (like bones or toys)
• To Escape or Gain Access

If your dog digs up your yard, it can get pretty frustrating for you. Try and determine the cause of the digging, then work to eliminate that source. Spend more time with your dog, give him more exercise, and work on extra training. If digging is inevitable, set aside an area where your dog can learn it is "okay" to dig, like a sandbox

4.  Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety is one of the most commonly discussed dog behavior problems. Manifestations include vocalization, chewing, inappropriate urination and defecation, and other forms of destruction that occur when a dog is separated from his owner. Not all of these actions are the result of separation anxiety. Signs of true separation anxiety include:

• Dog becomes anxious when owner prepares to leave
• Misbehavior occurs in the first 15-45 minutes after owner leaves
• Dog wants to follow owner around constantly
• Dog tries to be touching owner whenever possible

True separation anxiety requires dedicated training, behavior modification and desensitization exercises. Medication may be recommended in extreme cases, but this should be a last resort.

5.  Inappropriate Elimination

Inappropriate urination and defecation are among the most frustrating dog behaviors. They can damage areas of your home and make your dog unwelcome in public places or at the homes of others. It is most important that you discuss this behavior with your veterinarian first to rule out health problems. If no medical cause is found, try to determine the reason for the behavior, which can come down to one of the following:

• Submissive/Excitement Urination
• Territorial Marking
• Anxiety
• Attention-seeking
• Lack of proper housebreaking

Inappropriate elimination is unavoidable in puppies, especially before 12 weeks of age. Older dogs are another story. Many dogs​ require serious behavior modification to rid them of the habit because you must often alter their perception of themselves.

6.  Begging

Begging is a bad habit, but many dog owners actually encourage it. This can lead to digestive problems and obesity. Dogs beg because they love food. However, table scraps are not treats, and food is not love! Yes, it is hard to resist that longing look, but giving in "just this once" creates a problem in the long run.  When you teach your dog that begging is permitted, you are sending the wrong message.

Before you sit down to eat, tell your dog to go to his place, preferably where he will not be able to stare at you. If necessary, confine him to another room. If he behaves, give him a special treat only after you and your family are completely finished eating.

7.  Chasing

A dog's desire to chase moving things is simply a display of predatory instinct. Many dogs will chase other animals, people, and cars. All of these can lead to dangerous and devastating outcomes! While you may not be able to stop your dog from trying to chase, you can take steps to prevent disaster.

• Keep your dog on a leash at all times (unless directly supervised indoors).
• Train your dog to come when called.
• Have a dog whistle or noisemaker on hand to get your dog's attention.
• Stay aware and watch for potential triggers, like joggers.

Your best chance at success is to keep the chase from getting out of control. Dedicated training over the course of your dog's life will teach him to focus his attention on you first, before running off.

8.  Jumping Up

Puppies jump up to reach and greet their mothers. Later, they may jump up when greeting people. Dogs may also jump up to exert dominance. A jumping dog can be annoying and even dangerous. There are many methods to stop a dog's jumping, but not all will be successful. Lifting a knee, grabbing the paws, or pushing the dog away might work for some, but for most dogs, this sends the wrong message. Jumping up is often attention-seeking behavior, so any acknowledgment of your dog's actions provide a reward!

The best method: simply turn away and ignore your dog. Do not make eye contact, speak, or touch your dog. Go about your business. When he relaxes and remains still, calmly reward him. It won't take long before your dog gets the message

9.  Biting

Dogs bite for reasons that can be traced back to instinct and pack mentality. Puppies bite and nip on other dogs and people as a means for exploring their environment and learning their place in the pack. Owners must show their puppies that mouthing and biting are not acceptable by teaching bite inhibition. Beyond puppy behavior, the motivation to bite or snap typically comes from the following:

• Fear or Defensiveness
• Protection of Property
• Pain or Sickness
• Dominance Assertion
• Predatory Instinct

Though some breeds are thought to be dangerous, it is my belief that breed specific legislation is not the answer. Owners and breeders are the ones who can help decrease the tendency for any type of dog to bite through proper training, socialization and breeding practices

10.  Aggression

Dog aggression is exhibited by growling, snarling, showing teeth, lunging and biting. It is important to know that any dog has the potential to become aggressive, regardless of breed or history. However, dogs with violent or abusive histories and those bred from dogs with aggressive tendencies are much more likely to exhibit aggressive behavior towards people or other dogs.  Reasons for aggression are basically the same as the reasons a dog will bite or snap, but overall canine aggression is a much more serious problem.

If your dog has aggressive tendencies, consult your vet first as it may stem from a health problem. Then, seek the help of an experienced dog trainer or behaviorist. Serious measures should be taken to keep others safe from aggressive dogs

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Destructive Chewing

It’s normal for puppies and dogs to chew on objects as they explore the world. Chewing accomplishes a number of things for a dog. For young dogs, it’s a way to relieve pain that might be caused by incoming teeth. For older dogs, it’s nature’s way of keeping jaws strong and teeth clean. Chewing also combats boredom and can relieve mild anxiety or frustration.

Rule Out Problems That Can Cause Destructive Chewing

Separation Anxiety

Dogs who chew to relieve the stress of separation anxiety usually only chew when left alone or chew most intensely when left alone. They also display other signs of separation anxiety, such as whining, barking, pacing, restlessness, urination and defecation. To learn more about separation anxiety and how to treat it, please see our article, Separation Anxiety.

Fabric Sucking

Some dogs lick, suck and chew at fabrics. Some experts believe that this behavior results from having been weaned too early (before seven or eight weeks of age). If a dog’s fabric-sucking behavior occurs for lengthy periods of time and it’s difficult to distract him when he attempts to engage in it, it’s possible that the behavior has become compulsive. If you think this might be the case with your dog, please see our article, Finding Professional Behavior Help, for information about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training and experience in treating compulsive behavior.

Hunger

A dog on a calorie-restricted diet might chew and destroy objects in an attempt to find additional sources of nutrition. Dogs usually direct this kind of chewing toward objects related to food or that smell like food.

How to Manage or Reduce Your Dog’s Destructive Chewing

Puppy Teething

The desire to investigate interesting objects and the discomfort of teething motivate puppies to chew. Much like human infants, puppies go through a stage when they lose their baby teeth and experience pain as their adult teeth come in. This intensified chewing phase usually ends by six months of age. Some recommend giving puppies ice cubes, special dog toys that can be frozen or frozen wet washcloths to chew, which might help numb teething pain. Although puppies do need to chew on things, gentle guidance can teach your puppy to restrict chewing to appropriate objects, like his own toys.

Normal Chewing Behavior

Chewing is a perfectly normal behavior for dogs of all ages. Both wild and domestic dogs spend hours chewing bones. This activity keeps their jaws strong and their teeth clean. Dogs love to chew on bones, sticks and just about anything else available. They chew for fun, they chew for stimulation, and they chew to relieve anxiety. While chewing behavior is normal, dogs sometimes direct their chewing behavior toward inappropriate items. Both puppies and adult dogs should have a variety of appropriate and attractive chew toys. However, just providing the right things to chew isn’t enough to prevent inappropriate chewing. Dogs need to learn what is okay to chew and what is not. They need to be taught in a gentle, humane manner.

Useful Tips

• “Dog-proof” your house. Put valuable objects away until you’re confident that your dog’s chewing behavior is restricted to appropriate items. Keep shoes and clothing in a closed closest, dirty laundry in a hamper and books on shelves. Make it easy for your dog to succeed.
• Provide your dog with plenty of his own toys and inedible chew bones. Pay attention to the types of toys that keep him chewing for long periods of time and continue to offer those. It’s ideal to introduce something new or rotate your dog’s chew toys every couple of days so that he doesn’t get bored with the same old toys. (Use caution: Only give your dog natural bones that are sold specifically for chewing. Do not give him cooked bones, like leftover t-bones or chicken wings, as these can splinter and seriously injure your dog. Also keep in mind that some intense chewers may be able to chip small pieces off of natural bones or chip their own teeth while chewing. If you have concerns about what’s safe to give your dog, speak with his veterinarian.)
• Offer your dog some edible things to chew, like bully sticks, pig ears, rawhide bones, pig skin rolls or other natural chews. Dogs can sometimes choke on edible chews, especially if they bite off and swallow large hunks. If your dog is inclined to do this, make sure he’s separated from other dogs when he chews so he can relax. (If he has to chew in the presence of other dogs, he might feel that he has to compete with them and try to quickly gulp down edible items.) Also be sure to keep an eye on your dog whenever he’s working on an edible chew so that you can intervene if he starts to choke.
• Identify times of the day when your dog is most likely to chew and give him a puzzle toy filled with something delicious. You can include some of your dog’s daily ration of food in the toy.
• Discourage chewing inappropriate items by spraying them with chewing deterrents. When you first use a deterrent, apply a small amount to a piece of tissue or cotton wool. Gently place it directly in your dog’s mouth. Allow him to taste it and then spit it out. If your dog finds the taste unpleasant, he might shake his head, drool or retch. He won’t pick up the piece of tissue or wool again. Ideally, he will have learned the connection between the taste and the odor of the deterrent, and he’ll be more likely to avoid chewing items that smell like it. Spray the deterrent on all objects that you don’t want your dog to chew. Reapply the deterrent every day for two to four weeks. Please realize, however, that successful treatment for destructive chewing will require more than just the use of deterrents. Dogs need to learn what they can chew as well as what they can’t chew. 
• Do your best to supervise your dog during all waking hours until you feel confident that his chewing behavior is under control. If you see him licking or chewing an item he shouldn’t, say “Uh-oh,” remove the item from your dog’s mouth, and insert something that he CAN chew. Then praise him happily. If you suspect that your dog might react aggressively if you remove an item from his mouth, please see our Finding Professional Behavior Help article for information about finding a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB or Associate CAAB), a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) or a Certified Professional Dog Trainer (CPDT) with specialized training in treating aggression for guidance.
• When you can’t supervise your dog, you must find a way to prevent him from chewing on inappropriate things in your absence. For example, if you work during the day, you can leave your dog at home in a confinement area for up to six hours. Use a crate or put your dog in a small room with the door or a baby gate closed. Be sure to remove all things that your dog shouldn’t chew from his confinement area, and give him a variety of appropriate toys and chew things to enjoy instead. Keep in mind that if you confine your dog, you’ll need to give him plenty of exercise and quality time with you when he’s not confined.
• Provide your dog with plenty of physical exercise (playtime with you and with other dogs) and mental stimulation (training, social visits, etc.). If you have to leave your dog alone for more than a short period of time, make sure he gets out for a good play session beforehand.
• To help your dog learn the difference between things he should and shouldn’t chew, it’s important to avoid confusing him by offering unwanted household items, like old shoes and discarded cushions. It isn’t fair to expect your dog to learn that some shoes are okay to chew and others aren’t.
• Some puppies and juvenile dogs like to chew dirty underwear. This problem is most easily resolved by always putting dirty underwear in a closed hamper. Likewise, some puppies and dogs like to raid the garbage and chew up discarded sanitary napkins and tampons. This can be very dangerous. If a dog eats a sanitary item, it can expand while moving through his digestive system. Discard napkins and tampons in a container that’s inaccessible to your dog. Most young dogs grow out of these behaviors as they mature.
  

Lack of Exercise or Mental Stimulation

Some dogs simply do not get enough physical and mental stimulation. Bored dogs tend look for ways to entertain themselves, and chewing is one option. To prevent destructive chewing, be sure to provide plenty of ways for your dog to exercise his mind and body. Great ways to accomplish this include daily walks and outings, off-leash play with other dogs, tug and fetch games, clicker training classes, dog sports (agility, freestyle, flyball, etc.), and feeding meals in food puzzle toys.

Stress and Frustration

Sometimes a dog will chew when experiencing something that causes stress, such as being crated near another animal he doesn’t get along with or getting teased by children when confined in a car. To reduce this kind of chewing, try to avoid exposing your dog to situations that make him nervous or upset.

Dogs who are prevented from engaging in exciting activities sometimes direct biting, shaking, tearing and chewing at nearby objects. Shelter dogs and puppies sometimes grab and shake blankets or bowls in their kennels whenever people walk by because they’d like attention. When they don’t get it, their frustration is expressed through destructive behavior. A dog who sees a squirrel or cat run by and wants to chase but is behind a fence might grab and chew at the gate. A dog watching another dog in a training class might become so excited by the sight of his canine classmate having fun that he grabs and chews his leash. (Agility and Flyball dogs are especially prone to this behavior because they watch other dogs racing around and having a great time, and they want to join in the action.) The best intervention for this problem is to anticipate when frustration might happen and give your dog an appropriate toy for shaking and tearing. In a class situation, carry a tug or stuffed toy for your dog to hold and chew. If your dog is frustrated by animals or objects on the other side of a fence or gate at home, tie a rope toy to something sturdy by the gate or barrier. Provide shelter dogs and puppies with toys and chew bones in their kennels. Whenever possible, teach them to approach the front of their kennels and sit quietly to solicit attention from passersby.

What NOT to Do

• Do not show your dog the damage he did and spank, scold or punish him after the fact. He cannot connect your punishment with some behavior he did hours or even minutes ago.
• Do not use duct tape to hold your dog’s mouth closed around a chewed object for any length of time. This is inhumane, will teach your dog nothing, and dogs have died from this procedure.
• Do not tie a damaged object to your dog. This is inhumane and will teach your dog nothing.
• Do not leave your dog in a crate for lengthy periods of time (more than six hours) to prevent chewing.
• Do not muzzle your dog to prevent chewing.

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The Causes of Unwanted Chewing

Our dogs may be family, but that doesn’t mean they’re always the best roommates. And one of the most common complaints we humans have about our canine roomies is the chewing.

Why do they always go straight for the newest pair of shoes? The important document you needed for today’s meeting? The arm of the sofa?

There are many possible causes of destructive chewing. By identifying why your dog is engaging in the behavior, you’ll find it’s much easier to figure out how to stop it.

Puppyhood

Just like human toddlers like to put things in their mouths, puppies use their mouth to explore and understand the world around them. The good news is that, for many, it’s a stage that they will outgrow over time. So puppy-proof your home in the meantime, and focus on establishing your pack leadership so you can reign in chewing or any other unwanted behaviors over the long-term.

 

Separation anxiety

If the behavior occurs when you’re away from home, then it may be a symptom of separation anxiety. To stop chewing when left alone, you’ll need to address this underlying issue. Are you practicing “No Touch, No Talk, No Eye Contact” when entering and leaving the home? Do you leave the home with your dog in a rested state after a nice walk? Find more tips for addressing separation anxiety here.

 

Boredom

If your dog has excess energy, she has to direct it somewhere — and that may just be your favorite new pair of shoes. Assess the level of challenge you are providing for your dog. Are you providing regular walks? Are the walks long enough? What about other mental challenges? Are you playing with your dog enough?

 

Instinct

Even past puppyhood, dogs enjoy chewing. It’s a natural, normal behavior — as long as it isn’t excessive. But that doesn’t mean you have to grin and bear it. Instead, redirect the dog’s chewing instinct towards appropriate objects, such as chew toys. Correct your dog — calmly and immediately — when he is chewing on any other object you want him to avoid.

 

Medical issues

Some nutritional deficiencies can lead to pica, which is the instinct to eat non-food items. And also some dogs suffering from gastrointestinal issues may use chewing to trigger vomiting to feel better. Particularly if the behavior started suddenly, it’s worth ruling out medical causes before addressing it as a behavioral issue.

Dog chewing can be overcome with consistency. In addition to the tips above, another important technique is claiming the object, which means using your body language and calm-assertive energy to let the dog know that the object is yours. Try imagining an invisible fence that you’re putting up around the object and yourself.

If you’re struggling to find a solution for the destructive chewing behavior, consider getting an expert to help. You’re doing what’s best for you and your dog, since chewing the wrong object can cause lasting medical harm to your pup. Plus, hopefully, you’ll save your next pair of new shoes.

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Why Do Dogs Bark

Dogs will be dogs, and most dogs will bark, whine and howl at times; it's only natural. Dogs vocalize to communicate with humans and to express themselves. Sometimes we want our dogs to bark in order to warn us about potential danger or protect us from harm. Other times, the barking is excessive and seems to have no real meaning.

Why Dogs Bark

It is important to understand that dogs bark for various reasons. They do not bark just to annoy you and your neighbors, nor do they bark for spite or revenge. Dogs don't bark just because they can (though it might seem that way at times). Certain dog breeds bark more than others - some types of dogs were actually bred to be barkers. Then again, the Basenji does not bark at all (though the breed can vocalize in other ways). If you listen closely, you will eventually learn your dog's different barks. Understanding the reason why your dog barks is the first step towards controlling the behavior. In general, dogs will most commonly bark for the following reasons:

• Warning/Alert: It is natural for a dog to bark when someone is a the door or when strangers pass the house or car. Many will bark if they sense some type of threat, proclaiming "I'm here protecting this place so don't mess with me." The sound of this bark is usually sharp, loud and authoritative. Honing this instinct with training can help protect your home and family.
• Anxiety: Anxious barking often seems to be an an act of self-soothing for many dogs. It is often high-pitched and sometimes accompanied by whining. This type of barking is common for dogs with separation anxiety.
• Playfulness/Excitement: This type of barking is especially common in puppies and young dogs. Many dogs will bark while playing with people or other dogs. Even the sound of the bark tends to sound upbeat and possibly musical. Some dogs will bark excitedly when they know they are about to go for a walk or car ride.
• Attention-seeking: When you hear this bark, you will usually know just what it means. This bark says "Hey! Hey! Look! Here I am!" Other dogs may whine and bark together to get attention, almost like the tone of a whining child.
• Boredom: The bark of a bored dog sounds like a dog that barks just to hear her own voice. Though it tends to be annoying, it is also kind of sad. Bored dogs often bark to release excess energy, and sometimes bark out of loneliness. They usually need an activity and perhaps even a companion.
• Responding to Other Dogs: This is probably a familiar scenario. One dog down the street starts barking, and one by one the rest of your block joins in. It's like a cacophonous rendition of Row Your Boat.

What to Do About Problem Barking

Do you have a problem barker? It's best to address the issue now before it gets any worse. Learn how to stop barking and prevent excessive barking in dogs. In most cases, you can curb barking with basic training, mental stimulation, and exercise. In more serious situations, you may need to bring in a trainer or behaviorist.

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What You Need to Know About Traning Blue Heeler puppiers

Blue heeler puppies (actually known as Australian Cattle Dogs) are really, really cute. If you don’t know much about these puppies, we’d suggest learning more simply because they are so sweet. They make wonderful family dogs. As puppies they are sweet and playful and willing to learn anything you throw their direction. As adult dogs, they are some of the hardest working animals you will ever encounter. They don’t care how stubborn a cow, how difficult the task; they just want to do their job and make it known that they are there to do something specific. This is a dog that loves a good, hard job. And these are puppies that make wonderful additions to any family. If you are looking for blue heeler puppies to add to your family, whether you have a farm or a house with a smaller yard, you will want to know a few things about this particular breed of puppies. This very intelligent, very energetic breed requires a good bit of attention, love and affection; and positive reinforcement always helps in raising blue heeler puppies.

Introduce Your Dog to People and Animals Right Away

When it comes to blue heeler puppies, the more you socialize them the happier they will be. Dogs do require time around other people outside of your family as well as other animals to learn how to behave around them. Just like children, blue heeler puppies will not learn to behave in public and around others if they are not allowed to spend time around them. Imagine sending a child to school if he or she has never been around another child or person other than you in 5 years. Chances are pretty high that your child would be a wreck with no concept as to how to behave in social situations, and it would be difficult. The same is true of a dog; if you don’t teach the dog to socialize, how can you expect him or her to do it?

Use Consistency in Training

Because this is a dog that is very smart, you have to be very consistent when it comes to training. These are dogs that require a great deal of consistency. This dog is going to know that if you allow it to get away with breaking a rule; it will be able to get away with it again. If you’re going to have blue heeler puppies, you have to be so consistent in training that you do not allow this puppy to get away with anything. It’s not always simple for people to do this since they are so cute, you are so busy and things get in the way of training on a regular basis. However, if you want your puppy to learn, teach it well from the start.

Create Boundaries

Boundaries are very important for this dog. These are puppies that love to explore, work and herd. If you don’t teach the dog where to find the boundaries, he or she is going to wander wherever it wants to go whenever it sees fit. Teach the dog to heel and stay and you will not have as much of a problem with boundaries as you think. Additionally, make it a habit to go places you do not want to the puppies to go and teach them to sit outside those rooms or that fence or whatever so that the dogs will learn that this is as far as they go and everything past that is off limits.

Be the Boss

Blue heeler puppies are highly intelligent. If they suspect for even one moment that you are not going to stand up and be their boss at all times, they will take matters into their own hands and treat you as though they don’t have a boss. You do not want a puppy that does not behave appropriately, especially one with this much energy and this much of a desire to work. You need to be the alpha or the issues with your dog will go from bad to worse in very little time.

Be Kind but Firm

Dogs like positive reinforcement, and the blue heeler is no different. This type of dog requires that you positively train and discipline him or her more so than just discipline the dog. For example, if your dog is caught using the bathroom on the floor in your house, be sure to discipline the dog so that he or she understands this is wrong and should not be allowed. However, if your dog is caught standing by the door and asking to go out, uses the potty outside and then comes back in, show the puppy some serious reinforcement. Dogs respond very well to positivity, and you should show it as much as possible. Dogs learn just as much about what they should do as what they should not do by your use of positive reinforcement, and that’s a treat.

Encourage Exercise

If there is one thing that blue heeler breeders have to say to potential owners, it’s that these dogs require a great deal of exercise. They have a lot of energy and they are born to work and herd, and keeping them cooped up in the house without exercise for long periods of time is a bad idea. These are dogs that love to run and play, they do very well with games of fetch because it is a purpose-driven goal for them to find and locate something and then to bring it back. This breed considers this an actual job, and that makes it much easier for this breed to exercise and to feel it has a purpose. If you can’t get the dog out in the yard, take the dog on a long walk and take the dog to the park. These are dogs that love to run and play, however, so it will do you well to see if there are leash laws in your area that allow you to let your dogs off to run and play freely.

PDF :  Raise Blue Heeler puppy

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How to Train a Blue Heeler Puppy

"Always alert, extremely intelligent, watchful, courageous and trustworthy, with an implicit devotion to duty making it an ideal dog." These are the characteristics that the American Kennel Club (AKC) attributes to the Australian Cattle Dog, also known as the Blue Heeler, in the official breed standard. It is your task to assimilate your Blue Heeler puppy into your home and life and to ensure that you offer the training and guidance that will make her a good canine citizen in your community and a loving and trusted companion for you and your family. Seasoned trainers Brian Kilcommons and Sarah Wilson offer techniques for developing basic puppy skills that will get your training program off to a successful start.

The "Down" Command

Get your puppy accustomed to wearing a collar before introducing a leash. Give her at least a few hours to get used to the collar. You will know she is accustomed to wearing it when she no longer pays it any attention.

Position her collar so that the leash attachment ring is in the front, just above her chest.

Sit down near your puppy, facing her. Snap a leash onto her collar.

Place your foot on her leash to apply a gentle downward pressure. Keep your foot on the leash throughout the training session.

Speak the command, "Down."

Wait 30 seconds for your puppy to respond to the command. You do not need to repeat the command if she does not lie down.

Reposition your foot on the leash, applying slightly more pressure. Wait 30 seconds for your puppy's response. Repeat, taking up a little more slack on the leash each time, until she lies down.

Reward her when she lies down by praising her in a soothing voice. Place a treat on the floor in front of her.

Practice this routine with your puppy until she will lie down at your command. Gradually increase your distance from her, until you are working without the leash.

Keeping the Leash Slack

Take your puppy to a quiet place such as an empty garage, where she will not be distracted by interesting things.

Stand about 2 feet in front of your puppy, and snap the leash onto her collar.

Gently apply pressure to the leash, pulling it toward you. Keep a steady pressure on the leash. Do not increase or decrease it if she resists you by trying to pull away. Do not move toward her.

Wait for the puppy to move toward you.

Release the tension on the leash immediately and praise her when the puppy makes a move toward you.

Take up the slack on the leash again and wait for her to move toward you.

Practice this exercise until she makes the association between a slack leash and your praise.

Gradually begin walking, a few steps at a time. If she begins to pull on the leash, stop, remain still and take up the slack on the leash. Wait for her to make the leash slack again by moving toward you. Praise her, release the tension on the leash, and then begin walking again.

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Starting Your Dog in Tracking

Whether you train your dog to track for competitive sport, for fun, or for a potential working career, it is imperative to begin your training positively and in an ordered fashion so as to achieve the highest level of consistency and success.

 

The Beginning Steps: The Puppy

Working with puppies can provide some of the most entertaining training opportunities! They are like small sponges, always eager to work with a handler and to learn.  This is the perfect starting ground for many training purposes, but additionally, there are some games you can play with a puppy that really hone in the tracking ability at a young age.

 

Dogs use their noses to track, and while we can’t show them how to do that, we can encourage the natural ability.  Games are a fantastic way to do this!

Hide N’ Seek is one of the games that early on encourages a dog to look for a missing item, you! Particularly if you are dealing with a very owner loyal breed like a German Shepherd, this game plays on the puppy’s desire to know where their owner is. 

 

I like to begin playing this game with a 3-4 month old puppy in the house.  I simply have one person hold the puppy a short distance away from me while I excitedly speak to the puppy.  You’re wanting to both excite the puppy but also frustrate it since it can’t come to you.  I then run a short distance and duck behind something like a couch, wall, or small barrier and then ask the puppy to Come Find Me!

 

At this stage of the game the puppy is mostly working on where he saw you move towards.  That is okay.  When he finds you, a super enthusiastic greeting and a Good Find! is a perfect reward.  If desired, have a favorite toy and engage him in a game of tug.

 

As the puppy catches on and ages, the game simply gets harder.  This requires the puppy to no longer only use his eyes but to also switch to scent work.  He will both air scent and go to ground work. 

 

A variation of this game uses toys instead of you.  Find It is a game based on scent detection work.  Select a toy your dog loves immensely.  Engage him in play with the toy for a few moments to excite him.  Then, have a second person hold the puppy and take his toy and hide it near by.  The first times hide it in an easy to locate place with part of the toy exposed.  He will start his search by visually looking for the toy, but to truly find it will require scent work. 

 

Both Hide N’ Seek and Find It are games that puppies eagerly love to play, but they also help the puppy learn to find a missing or hidden item.  They use their natural ability, and we simply show them what we want them to locate.

 

Beginning Tracking: On the Track 

It might seem like it would be difficult to transition your puppy from games to actual tracking work, but it really isn’t.  Because of those games, your puppy knows how to use his nose already.  You’re just going to be showing him where to use it.

 

There are many ways to train in tracking, and different dogs sometimes require different methods.  Very intense and focused puppies and dogs might track short distances for their toy, but for the majority of dogs, utilizing food to assist the dog is a good idea.

 

Food drops are the tiny morsels of food you lay inside the track line.  This way the dog is motivated to move forward for food drops, but at the same time the dog is scenting what is with the food.

 

You can start tracking by laying your own tracks, but it is also a good idea as your dog gets more advanced to have friends and family members lay tracks for you too.  These first tracks will be simple and are normally just a straight line track with no turns.

 

Have your dog nearby in a stay, crate, or being held by someone so that the dog can watch.  Start by showing your dogs the goodies and an article.  An article is just a small object that will be placed on the track for the dog to find.  Start with something fabric like a sock or glove initially.  These hold scent well and can be filled with food.  Excite your dog like was used for the puppy games.  An excited and frustrated dog works harder out of the gate.

Now, is the time to lay the track.  You will need:

• Flags like are used to mark utility lines.  These can be made or purchased at a lawn and garden store.
• Food morsels for the track.
• Two articles.  One is for the track for the dog to find.  The second article is your scent article (has to match the one on the track so both articles have the same scent) to show the dog.  Place the second article inside a small plastic bag and seal it to avoid contamination.
• A tracking harness (should be on the dog prior to laying the track). 
• A tracking line.   

Here is how to lay the track:

• Place a flag at the start of the track.
• Take one step forward and place a treat in the food step as you move your foot forward. 
• Continue to take very small steps forward (to keep the scent close together) and place several food morsels in each step.  You want the footprints close together, and you also want treats just an inch or two apart.
• Walk a straight line of about 10-15 feet laying the track the whole way with food.  Place one or two flags along this straight line.  Flags mark your track line, which will be more important later with tougher tracks. 
• At the end of the track, place a flag.  Also place the article full of food about a foot or two past that flag line. 
• DO NOT continue to walk in a straight line off the track.  Try to turn and hop away from it.  Try to not walk back over the track to return to your dog either as you likely won’t walk exactly the same line and will only confuse the scent track.

Return to your dog and attach his tracking line to his collar.  Only attach the line to his harness when you are at the track! You want the dog to understand that tracking begins when you hook to the harness, so you should only attach to it at the start line.  You will also switch back to his collar at the very end of completing the track.

 

Right at the front of the track, pull out your second article in the plastic bag.  Open it and place at the dog’s nose for him to scent it.  Give him a moment and say Find It.  Move towards the start of the track and if need be, you can point out the track line beginning.  Stand still and allow him to move out in front of you, feeding him the tracking line so that you maintain distance behind him. 

 

Because this is a short track, he might rocket right through it! When he gets to the placed article and is smelling it, tell him Good Find It!  It is important that your dog learn an alert signal.  This can be a sit, a down, or picking the item up.  Whatever you want your dog to do, ask him to do it before he is rewarded with the food out of the item.

Tracking: On to More Advanced

Of course tracking work gets far more complicated than a short line track.  There are turns to be added, variety of surfaces to track over and through, distractions to add in, and distance increases.  These all take time to add in and require more information beyond the scope of this article to cover, but the important thing to remember is that once your dog can handle a straight line track, you should begin making that track longer, adding in simple to more advanced curves and turns, and increasing the distance between food drops (until there are no longer any food drops). 

 

A skilled dog is an amazing tracker and sight to see.  If you build his training foundation right from the beginning, he will have no problem tracking just about anything.  

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Train Your Dog to Track by Scent

You can teach your dog to follow a track or trail on the ground, to air scent and to identify scented objects. All three can be taught simultaneously because they employ similar scenting skills.

To teach scenting a track, you need some treats and a grassy area, such as a baseball field or park. Although hot dogs are not the most nutritious food, I find they work best, and you won't over stuff your dog's belly. Begin early; many people start by 6 a.m. before anyone has walked on the grass.

Have your dog sit or lay down and stay. Take a couple of inch-long pieces of hot dog and use your shoe to mash them into the grass. Make sure to crush the grass under the hot dogs, which will release a grass scent. Then, with the hot dog residue on the bottom of your shoe, walk a straight line away from your dog. Every six or ten feet, drop a piece of hot dog. Stop after about 20 feet and drop one of your gloves or one of your dog's toys; your dog needs to find something at the end of the track. Drop another piece of hot dog on top of the item.

Go back to your dog and release him from his stay, encouraging him to smell the ground where the hot dogs were. Tell your dog "Find it!" and let him sniff. If he begins to follow the track, praise him quietly by saying, "Good dog!" and let him lead the way. Don't be too enthusiastic or you may distract the dog from his sniffing. Also, don't try to lead him; let your dog figure it out.

At this point, your dog is following several scents: the trail of hot dogs, which helps motivate him, the crushed grass where you mashed the hot dogs and the crushed grass where you later stepped. Your dog is also following your individual scent, which he knows well because he smells your scent every day. But now your dog is learning to combine the scents, to follow them and to find the item at the end of the track.

When your dog successfully completes this trick, make another one by taking 10 steps to the side. If your dog is excited and having fun, you can do three or four short tracks per training session. As your dog improves over several sessions, make the track longer, add curves and corners, and drop several items along the way, but put the hot dog only on the one you want him to find. When making tracks longer or adding curves, use small pegs, stakes or flags to mark the track so you can tell if your dog is off track.

Air scenting requires your dog to find someone by sniffing the scents wafting through the air instead of following a track. Most search-and-rescue dogs have both skills; they can follow a track, but if people walking over the track spoil it, they can also use their air-scenting skills.

You will need another person to help find a spot with room to run and places for a person to hide, such as a field with trees. Hold your dog while the other person shows him a treat or toy.

The person should playfully tease the dog to get him excited and then run away from the dog for a short distance. The person should then hide behind bushes or tall grass. Wait a few seconds, letting your dog watch and think, and then let him go as you tell your dog, "Find him!'' When your dog finds the person, he or she should give your dog the treat or toy and praise him enthusiastically.

When your dog begins to understand the game, you can make him more difficult. Have the other person run into the wind once and then with the wind so your dog has to use his nose and think through the problem. The person can run a zigzag pattern away from the dog or change hiding places once out of the dog's sight. Increase the difficulty of the challenges gradually so your dog doesn't get discouraged.

When your dog becomes good at finding the other person, turn him away or cover his eyes so he can't watch the person run away. Then your dog really has to use his nose.

Identifying scented objects can be taught much like tracking. Use a piece of hot dog to scent a particular object, such as a glove. Place the object on the floor or ground and send your dog to it. Praise your dog when he sniffs the object. Easy game, huh?

When your dog consistently goes to the object, scent it with a piece of hot dog and place it on the floor with several other different objects. But use tongs when placing the other objects so your scent is not on them. Send your dog, telling him "Find mine!" Don't say anything if he sniffs the wrong objects, but praise him when he finds the right one.

Make training fun for your dog. Remember, you are trying to control a skill your dog has naturally. Use lots of praise, be enthusiastic and vary the training. If your dog has a good time, he will try harder and concentrate more.

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Teaching Your Dog to Love the Water

Most dogs love the water. How can you encourage this natural affinity, with safety and enjoyment? In the following excerpt from Clicker Gundog by Helen Phillips you'll explore the important skill of swimming—valuable for all dogs, whether or not they are trained to hunt

While this article is written with hunting dogs in mind, the excellent principles apply to most any canine companion.

The skill of swimming

The majority of gundogs are natural swimmers and love nothing better than doing it for pure pleasure. There is a skill to it, and experience alongside confidence is also required. Some dogs find the paddling action difficult to master at first, causing them to lift out the water at the front end whilst the rear end sinks—lots of splashing but no movement. This is one of those skills where practice does make perfect.

Introduce a puppy or young dog to water as early as possible. I give my puppies bowls to play and splash about in from around 6 weeks on. The last litter of puppies found the new pond in the garden and introduced themselves to swimming at a very early age whilst watching the older dogs splash around and chase each other.

Begin by finding a pond or lake with still or very slow moving water. I would not recommend using the river for the first lessons, as the currents can be very strong. The water may be still on the surface but moving at great speed underneath. Watch out for the blue-green algae that appears early in the year; this can be very harmful and sometimes causes death (it is toxic to us as well).

Find somewhere that the dog can enter and exit the water easily via a gentle slope. Be prepared to enter the water with your dog. This may be all they need to build the confidence to take the first step. Taking a favorite toy may also be helpful if they are reluctant.

If your dog is a little hesitant, spend time playing in the shallows and gradually let them make their own choice to enter further. Click for the decisions and reward with chase for a toy or food if appropriate.

The dog will need to keep their body flat on the surface of the water and develop a paddling action with their feet. If your dog is having difficulty, then help them by supporting under their belly, slightly raising the back end until they are flat. Click for this position, and gradually reduce your involvement. Reward with a chase of a toy to the shore, or being allowed to leave the water.

Take your time and do not rush this. My first Vizsla fell in the river as a young dog. The shock of this was so great she never entered water again. She walked around puddles, in case they were deeper than they appeared; the trauma can have a lasting effect. Make sure your dog is confident in entering the water before introducing the retrieve. Using the retrieve to teach the swimming may work with some dogs, but the shock of entering the water may develop avoidance of both the retrieve and swimming in others.

Once established and your dog is confident, attach your swimming cue. This will be used to cue your dog to enter the water when building the chain with retrieve.

Shaking on cue

When leaving the water the dog will naturally wish to shake. This is normally no problem unless they are carrying game. The enthusiasm and force that is put into shaking results in the game having the appearance of a rag doll. It can also encourage the dog to grip tighter than normal so as not to let go, or the force throws the game from the dog's mouth. Capture the behavior and attach a cue.

• Set up the situation where the dog can leave the water easily and you can be in close proximity.
• As soon as the dog shakes, click, reward appropriately. This can be with verbal encouragement from you, continued shaking, or food if your dog will accept this, or even back for more swimming.
• Set up scenarios at home, douse your dog with the hosepipe and capture the shake from this. Dogs will shake even if a small amount of water is on the top of their head; they do not need the full body shower.
• Anticipate when the dog is going to begin the behavior and attach a verbal cue to it. Build on this until the behavior only happens when cued.

This can then be introduced when your dog is retrieving from water. The dog will deliver the retrieve to you on leaving the water and wait to be cued to shake.

If your dog is a little hesitant, spend time playing with them in the shallows and gradually let them make their own choice to enter further. Click for the decisions and reward with chase for a toy or food if appropriate.

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