Squirrel Dog Training

Possum Method

Don't want your squirrel dog treeing possum? My answer to that is "GOOD LUCK"! If you don't mind your dog treeing an occational possum then read on. The following has been tried three times and it worked twice. Trap a possum. Don't show your dog the possum. Go to the woods with dog and possum. Leave dog in the truck and find a good tree to put the possum in, one you can shake him out of. Make a short track with the possum. Leave plenty of ground scent and put the possum up in the tree. Go get the dog and hunt toward the possum. If you have to keep the dog on a leash to get him to cross the track that is OK. Hopefully the dog will get close enough to wind the possum or pick up the track, may take a few minutes dog will likely try to locate the possum. You may have to give the tree a little shake to help the dog a little. Dog may bark, whine and show some interest in the possum. When dog has located the possum and hopefully treed on it then shake it out and let the dog wool it a little but not so much he looses interest, worry him a little with it. Put the possum back in the trap and the dog back in the truck. Go back and get the possum, find another good spot and put the possum up except this time don't leave any ground scent or any scent on the tree. Get the dog and go hunting, try to get the dog in the area downwind so he has a good chance of winding the possum. Hopefully he will wind the possum and locate and tree on it. When the dog trees put the possum down to him again. Get rid of the possum and go squirrel hunting. I am not telling you what to do. Whether or not you use a possum is your decision. I repeat, I have done this with three dogs that were not treeing. They were all curs. A one year old, a two year old and a three year old. The one year old and the three year old treed their own squirrel within an hour of being worked on the possum. The two year old didn't show any interest in the possum and never made a tree dog anyway. I think for this to work the dog has to be gamey to begin with. Don't take this method to the bank and deposit it. It is experimental. I wonder if a possum smells like a squirrel only stronger maybe? If you have a gamey dog that won't tree I think the possum work is worth a try at least before culling.....This is just one of the things I have done in the past in my attempts to "TRAIN" a dog. I do some experimenting. If somebody else should give this method a try I would like to know what kind of results it produced. I will be adding some more of my off the wall stuff as time goes on.

Pickin' out a Puppy

This is where it all starts most of the time. The first step is to decide on your breed and the cross you want your pup to come from. That is a gamble in itself. So, that being done it is time to look at a litter of pups. The goal is to pick the most promising prospect. I usually just let the breeder pick me one and if I don't see anyhing I don't like I just go with that. Everybody has their own ideas about picking a pup. Active, calm, playful, you name it. I have raised a few litters in my life and there are some things I have noticed. Everybody wants a pup that will hunt. Pups have a tendency to wander a little and investigate even as early as 6 weeks. No two pups are alike, even littermates. I think a pup should have an inborn desire to hunt and hunt to the front. I have never been able to teach a dog to hunt. I would like to meet the man who can teach a dog to hunt. Oftentimes you can see the inborn desire to hunt to the front in entire litters of pups as young as 6 weeks. Here is a little test. Take the whole litter or one or two out of the pen. Walk out across the yard. Do they follow behind? Grab your pants leg? This is not the time to shoot the breeze with the breeder about a squirrel dog you once owned. This is the time to focus on the pups. What if they are all up under your feet but not pulling on you pants leg or grabbing your shoestrings.? What if they are coming around your legs and between your legs doing their best to stay in front of you? You might have to step over and around them but I think it is a good sign when little puppies at least try to stay in front. What if you are walking around with them and you look back and one is about 20 ft. behind with his mind on something else? Seems to be off in a world of his own. Clap your hands, whistle, get his attentoin. See if he comes running and get in front of you again. Sometimes the breeder has played with the pups a lot and all the pups want to do is play. You might need about 5 minutes alone with them. What if you like one in particular but you clap your hands it startles the pup a little bit but in a minute it is back to normal. No big deal. Pups from time to time are startled by strange sights and sounds. Take advantage of an opportunity. What if a pup goes wandering off 20 ft or so. Pick up a rock and pitch it so it lands away from him so he can hear it. Did he look toward the sound where it landed, did it alert him to be curious as to what it was? What if a pup started looking for what it was and couldn't find it and actually pointed his head skyward and looked up? Might be the ugliest one in the bunch but that would be my pick. The point I am trying to make is focus your full attention on the pups. All this stuff and anything else you can think of only takes a few minutes. Pick one you have confidence in. If you don't have confidence in yourself and the pup then it is doubtful that you will give the pup the opportunity to develop and do what it is bred to do. Now that you have picked the pup that you have confidence in, you pay your money and head towards home with puppie in you lap. Thoughts start creepng into your mind. How am I going to train a squirrel dog? I never had a squirrel dog? Maybe I can find someone who has a trained dog that will let me hunt my puppie with? FORGET THAT STUFF-- You have chosen a pup that you have confidence in, now you need confidence in yourself. You have already started training. You did that when you walked around a yard with your pup. Take that pup for short walks as often as you can. Ten minutes as often as you can is enough in a little patch of woods even if it is only an acre or even a park. Give the pup a chance to gradually develop and allow it to do what it is bred to do.-- I recently visited the place where I grew up and played as a boy. I remembered it was a big place. Woods, field, it was huge. I hunted jay-birds with my BB gun. They place must have shrunk. Wasn't near as big as I remembered it. Wasn't two acres in the whole place house and all. Imagine what a half acre patch of woods must be like to a pup. Think about it. I hope all this makes sense.

Forty-Nine Days

Way back in 1971 I was big into the bird dogs. There was a book on the market called "GUN DOGS" written by Richard Wolthers. I trained a bird dog that year going strictly by the book. It was based on a study that was done concerning guide dogs for the blind. As best I can remember guide dogs were being started in their training at about 6 to 8 months of age. Some smart person decided that a puppys brain was as big as it is going to get at exactly 49 days of age and at that age it should start learning. Not 48 and not 50 but exactly 49 days of age. They decided to start some pups training at 49 days. The success rate at the time I believe was 10% and the pups that were started at 49 days had a success rate of 90%. --- I went by the book with the yard training of my setter pup. It was amazing the way that pup picked it up. Within a couple of weeks he would sit, stay and come and and within a month he would do these things on hand signals alone. By the time he was 6 months old he was beginning to take directional hand signals, stay, come, go left, go right and retrieving. The book concerns bird dogs and in the pointing part a bird wing on a fishing pole is used. Some people use a squirrel tail on a fishing pole for squirrel dogs. I was in a book store about a month ago and the book is still in print. There are also two other books by the same author. One is called "WATER DOG" and one is called "HOUSE DOG". Lots of bird dog and retriever people still swear by the 49 day method. If you happen to be in a bookstore you might want to thumb thru one of these books and see what you think. The obedience training instructions contained in this book works. It seems to me that the stay command may be an important one. I wonder if a dog was taught the stay command if it would come in handy in keeping one treed. The fact is I have done better with obedience training starting at a very young age. The problem with too much obedience training is that it might produce a mechanical dog that looks to you for commands instead of hunting.

The Nitty Gritty

There are probably as many ways to make a squirrel dog as there are squirrel hunters who make them. Volumns could be written on the subject. I have tried to narrow it down to what I think are the three most important factors in the development of squirrel dog.

1) Breeding--There are crossbreeds that are excellent, however, I believe that in order to increase the odds of ending up with a good dog is to start with a good bred pup. That is, a pup that is bred to hunt and tree squirrels. The breed is a matter of choice. I think that it is more important that a pup come from a long line of "producing" squirrel dogs than it is for the sire and dam to be great squirrel dogs themselves. The breed of dog and the line that a pup comes from is not something that should be taken lightly. Study, talk to dog people, gather as much information as possible before making a decision. When you buy a pup you are not buying that pups Mama or Daddy. You are buying an individual that they produced.

2) Confidence--This has more to do with the trainer than the dog. An owner is supposed to be an intelligent being. "THINK"!!! As an intelligent being an owner should have confidence in his ability to, at the very least, encourage a pup in the way that he should go. I think everyone will agree that patience is necessary. The more confidence you have in yourself and the dog, the more patience you will have. Everyone wants the kind of dog we all read about. The four month old overnight sensation is rare. A pup that starts at eight to ten months old is far more common. I think it is reasonable to expect a dog to give an indication that it is going to make a squirrel dog by one year of age if hunted. "If hunted", that is the next step.

3) Exposure--If you have read this far I can assume that what I have to say is either interesting or I can assume that you don't know how to train a dog. I don't know how to train a dog so that is where exposure to game comes into play. I won't tell you what to do. I will tell you what I do. I choose my breed. I choose the bloodline. I choose the cross. I have my new puppy in my lap and I have confidence in myself and my new puppy and I know it is going to take time and I am determined to be patient(patience is not my strong point). New puppy in pen, now what! This is my hunting dog so why not go hunting? Puppy has gotten to the point in a couple of days that he is glad to see me coming to the pen. He wants out so we load up in the truck. I know where there is an acre patch of woods. We go walking. I go slow and puppy investigates everything and I notice that puppy has a tendency to get in front of me. We take about a ten or fifteen minute walk. This is what is called exposure to game. Didn't see any squirrel but I bet that squirrels saw us cause I know that there are some squirrels in that acre patch of woods. This is all I do for the next several months. Sometimes we go twice a day. Sometimes we go three or four days in a row. I take a puppy to the woods as often as I can for short trips. I have done this many times with many dogs. I do this because I like to watch pups develop. Within a few weeks I might notice a pup run up ahead a short distance, stop look down in the woods then look back at me and come running back to me. Something in pup is making him want to go down in the woods but he is young and lacks confidence. I have confidence that puppy will gain more and more confidence the more I take him hunting. All this hunting is called "exposure" to game. Still haven't seen a squirrel. Sooner or later we will get lucky. By the time puppy is four or five months old we have to go to bigger woods because puppy has gotten to where he will swing on out on me now and then. He is hunting. Doesn't know what he is hunting but he sure is going somewhere. Sometimes I can see puppy put his feet up on a tree and smell up the trunk. There is no squirrel there and puppy has never seen a squirrel to my knowledge. Wonder what is going on? Puppy is starting to do more and more what he is bred to do. He doesn't know why, it is just in his genes. He is getting the opportunity to develop and he is being exposed to game. He has never seen a dead squirrel, hide, or tail. Sooner or later I think he will tree. Pearl treed her own wild in the woods squirrel when she was eight months and nine days old. She saw it about 75 ft away. Treed it right. She is squirrel crazy and has never tasted fur. Trigger winded one before he was eight months old, worked it hard, winded but did not bark. He laid down on his belly at the base of the tree and looked at me. It was hot that day. The squirrel was there, I saw it. Trigger and Pearl are as different as night and day. They are littermates. They are well bred. I have confidence and I am forcing myself to be patient. I am exposing them to game(taking them hunting). I think they are future squirrel dogs. I don't use hides, tails, or treats. I have never taught a dog to "speak". There are as many ways to train a dog as there are dog men. There are roll cages, training tubes and everything else anyone can come up with. I have nothing against these devices, if it works for you then do it. I think all these things may have their place, even hides, tails and treats but I don't overdo anything. Even exposure, woods time can be overdone. For pups, short trips are great, make it too long and pup may become tired and bored with the whole thing. Since a dog is just a dog and I am supposed to be an intelligent being I feel obligated to force myself to "THINK".

The Chase

I think that all cur and feist pups should be born with a desire to chase. They will chase very early in life. Stick, ball or anything else. I have noticed that if I throw a ball for a small pup that he will chase. Whether or not he retrieves doesn't matter. After a few day if I throw high the pup might start to watch the ball in the air, like a frisby dog or something. When he starts watching it in the air I say "look for him". Guess what? After awhile I can take pup and just say "look for him" and he will look up. Then I can make a throwing motion with my arm and say "look for him" and and he will look up for the ball with more intensity. A ball that isn't there. I don't fool him like this much because he will get wise to me. This look up when you say "look for him" can come in handy. If you happen to see a squirrel timbering while you are walking pup you can start saying "look for him" and there is a much better chance of the pup seeing the squirrel and getting some experience. I think the pup thinks the squirrel might come down like the ball and do his best to stay with the squirrel.

Speak

I have never taught a dog to speak. When a dog starts making an attempt to tree even if he isn't barking I talk to him telling him to "tree him up", "squirrel up" or whatever. I try to get excited trying to get the dog excited. Dog is likely to bark if he gets excited enough. There are many squirrel dogs that will bark(speak) on command. Here is an example. My dog named Knothead is chained to a big oak tree. If I go out there he will get excited because he wants me to unsnap him and go hunting. If I start saying "look for him" he will look up and if I keep on with "squirrel up" etc. he will bark up and look up that oak tree. I did not train him to do this he just put it together. I don't know how to train a squirrel dog. I just take them hunting and talk to them especialy when they are young. I get excited with them and try to encourage them in the way that I think they should go.

Tying at tree

Many experienced dog men have told me to always tie my dog at the tree. I don't tie my dog at the tree but that doesn't mean it isn't a good idea. It might even condition him to stay treed. Since I don't tie my dog at the tree I do sometimes put him on a leash. At the very least I always put my hands on my dog at the tree. I think this conditions him to being caught at the tree. There is nothing more aggravating than a dog you can't catch at the tree. If you plan on doing much competition hunting you better have a dog you can catch and leash at the tree. If there is one place a dog wants his freedom it is at the tree. There is a squirrel up and the dogs knows he can'tget him if he comes down and he knows he can't run with him if he timbers. There are a lot of things written about training a dog. The following is my thought. If a treedog had to be trained you might as well get a beagle and train it to hunt and tree squirrels. If a beagle had to be trained you might as well get a feist and train it to jump and run a rabbit. I would not want a dog that came from a line of dogs that had to be trained to do what they should be bred to do. I think it is all about naturals. Mack Ledbetter has a little female named Pearl. I raised Pearl til she was 11 months old. Pearl has never been trained by me to do anything. I only took her on short hunts but she has probably been to the woods more times that most old dogs. Heck. I didn't even take a gun til she was over 8 months old. I saw her work a squirrel and I saw her tree. I saw Pearl do what she is bred to do.

Trapped Squirrels

I have come to believe that trapped squirrels may have a place in starting a pup. Over the years I have had terrible luck using trapped squirrels. The squirrel seldom does what I want it to do. Most of the time it comes out of the trap so fast the dog doesn't even see it come out. Result, nothing, all the pup did was get to see a squirrel in a cage. I think if a trapped squirrel is used it should be used in a situation as close to a natural hunting situation as possible. I have learned that if a squirrel is taken a mile or more from where it was caught it is more likely to be disoriented when released and more likely to jump from tree to tree after it is released and thereby giving the pup a decent workout. Now, if I release a squirrel in strange woods I hang the trap a few feet up on a tree out of the dogs reach with the door pointed down at an angle so that when the squirrel is turned loose he has no place to go but jump to the ground running. After I set up the situation I then go get the dog and go hunting in the direction of the trap so that hopefully the pup will locate and tree the squirrel with as little help from me as possible. Think about it. Dog locates squirrel. Squirrel is up over dogs head. Hopefully dog will tree or at least show an interest in what is up. I release squirrel, squirrel jumps to ground with pup after him and squirrel goes back up. Since squirrel isn't in his normal territory he may timber good and may even jump to the ground again. This is as close to a natural situation as I can come up with. This method has worked good for me.

Cold Hard Facts of Life

No matter what you do, no matter what breed you choose, no matter how well bred a pup is, there are some that just DO NOT MAKE IT. It is impossible to name all the faults that can show up in a dog. In my opinion a dog should be showing some inclination to tree a squirrel by the time it is a year old. That doesn't mean that at a year old I would the dog cull if it isn't treeing squirrels consistently but I think a dog should be treeing at least in its second season if hunted.

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DOG RECALL: GET YOUR DOG TO COME BACK

It’s the simplest thing in the world – at least on the face of it – but in practice it’s really quite hard to get your dog to come back to you every time regardless of the distractions around you. Here's some help from the dog training expert...

Happy dog recall!Some readers may have a rare dog that just wants to follow them around everywhere outside and who never strays far from your side but for everyone else, here are a few of my top tips for you when you’re training your dog recall.

Don’t worry, be happy! Recall should be a happy and exciting activity. Use a bright, clear voice and look happy! Personally, I never run particularly quickly towards people who are scowling at me. I’m funny like that – you may well be too – and dogs never seem to respond well to scowling or boring people either. Dogs are funny, eh?

Use really good food rewards if your dog likes treats.. and play with your dog happily when they get back to you. You’re trying to create real DESIRE to get back to you quickly. If your dog would do anything for a toy, then use that instead – but don’t throw it away too quickly.. Remember that coming back to YOU first is what gets Fido the reward. You’re trying to make the connection that coming back = FUN!

Move about to be seen! As odd as it may seem, puppies (and to some extent adult dogs) don’t always ‘lock on’ to us by sight when we’re a distance away unless we move. It varies between the breeds, but if you move about or wave your arms around when your dog looks up, you may well increase your chances of them making the connection that you are calling them back.

Run away!! Many of you will have heard that if you walk off out of the field, your dog may well panic and head off after you. That’s true enough and as a strategy for when it’s all gone wrong, it’s passable - but it’s not dog recall training. Here’s a variation on a theme: Once Fido has discovered that coming back to you is great, try running backwards a few steps so that he has to work a little harder to get to the fun (treat/toy/fuss). You’ll get a little more speed to your recall that way.

Train It Step by Step. Build up the level of distractions that are around when you’re training a dog to come back. If you were training someone to drive, you wouldn’t head straight out onto the dual carriageway, would you? In the same way you should build up the level of difficulty for your dog whenever he/she is learning something new – including recall. Make sense..?

Use a Long Line. I use a 30ft lead (not a retractable) with my clients to make sure that we keep control of the dog at all times. Despite all your best efforts, sometimes the distractions will inevitable be more exciting than you are during training despite your best arm-waving, happy-sounding, backwards running efforts. I’ve developed a method for using a long line - and for teaching it - that ensures that you won’t get tangled up and send your dog lots of wrong signals, but it’s quite beyond the scope of this little article. Like most things, it’s easy enough if you know how. (I teach it in one to one dog training sessions)

Angry Doesn’t Work. If you feel yourself getting frustrated or angry, please do your best – hard though it is – to calm down. Even if your dog does come back, it won’t be willingly - which is the real key to dog recall. I once saw a lady get so utterly enraged with her dog – quite literally apoplectic – that she eventually fainted. (She wasn’t a Dogfather client I hasten to add!) Her poor dog wouldn’t come anywhere near her until she had fallen down and gone quiet. It’s an extreme example – but you get the point.

So there we are – a few pearls of wisdom on dog recall. Don’t expect too much too soon – and certainly not without some effort. Like most things in life, recall gets better with practice (assuming you’re doing the right things) and it’s unfair to expect your dog to come back every time ‘just because he should do what he says’ if you haven’t actually trained it. Recall training takes weeks of ‘little and often’ practice to make it reliable, but with the right help and a little perseverance, you’ll see a huge improvement.

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Training Your Dog Not to Pull on the Leash

Imagine your dog walking happily by your side, stopping when you stop, turning when you turn, and continuing with you past other dogs and people. He doesn’t pull on the leash, and he only goes potty and sniffs when you give permission. Leash manners is probably the most challenging thing you will probably teach him to do, but it is fun too and well worth the effort! Read on to begin to make this vision a reality.

Before we begin:

A head collar or front-attachment harness can help to discourage your dog from pulling, but he will need training to learn to walk beside you without pulling at all.

A front-attachment harness is a safe and easy to use no-pull device that is great for all dogs. Choose a head collar for dogs with aggressive tendencies or for those that need the maximum amount of control such as a small owner with giant-breed dog.

The front-attachment harness and head collar should only be used with leashes that are a maximum of 6 feet long. If the leash is too long, it is possible that he could get going fast enough to hurt himself if he were to hit the end of the leash abruptly.

A simple way to help your dog learn to walk without pulling on the leash is to stop moving forward when he pulls and to reward him with treats when he walks by your side. If your dog is not very interested in food treats, then you can a tug a toy or toss a ball for him in place of feeding a treat.

The steps below will go into more detail in order to help you to teach him how to have excellent leash manners.

Step 1:“Walking with my person is delicious!”

Start by attaching your dog to a rope or leash that is 10-20 feet long (but not retractable) while he is wearing a standard harness. Get some pea-sized pieces of fresh meat or cheese to use to reward your dog and go to a familiar outdoor area like your backyard.

Decide whether you prefer your dog to walk on your left or right (left is traditional). Whichever side you choose, you will feed him his treat reward right by your thigh on that side. He will soon begin to stay near that side since that is where yummy treats appear!

Walk briskly and randomly around your yard. Whenever your dog happens to choose to walk beside you, reward him with praise and a treat next to your thigh on your preferred side. If he continues walking next to you, reward him for every step you take together. As he gets better at this you will not need to reward him as often. If your dog is completely uninterested in you, take him inside and then try again later at a time when he is a bit more hungry.

Practice until your dog is staying beside you more often than not.

Step 2: “It’s worth my while to watch where my person is going and go along too!”

Begin walking about your yard. Wait for a moment when your dog is walking off on his own, or is lagging behind to sniff or go potty. Say “let’s go” in an up beat voice, slap your thigh the first few times to make sure that he notices you and turn and walk away from your dog.

When he catches up with you reward him with praise and by feeding a treat to him next to your preferred side. Then feed him a treat every couple of steps if he continues to stay with you as you walk. If he catches up to you very quickly, give him an extra reward.

If the leash is tight and he does not come towards you, stop walking and apply gentle leash pressure. The leash pressure is meant to be a reminder of your presence and to make it slightly unpleasant for him to ignore you, but not to force him towards you. Praise him and release the pressure once he begins to come towards you. When he catches up with you reward him with praise and by feeding a treat to him next to your preferred side. Then feed him a treat every couple of steps if he continues to stay with you as you walk.

Continue to practice this Step in your yard until he is staying by your side most of the time and if he veers off away from your side, he comes right back to your side after you say “let’s go”.

Step 3: “I know when it’s time to smell (or to pee on) the roses”

Your dog needs time to sniff and relieve himself while on the leash, but it will help him to learn better manners if you decide when that will be. As you are practicing your leash walking with your dog, about every 5 minutes, at a time when you would usually give a food reward, instead say  something like “go sniff” and let him sniff around or go potty while he is on the leash. This is a privilege or reward, so if he pulls on the leash during this free time say “lets go” and walk in the opposite direction, thereby ending the free time.

When you are ready to end the free-time, say “let’s go” and begin walking.

Step 4: “Sometimes I really need to pay attention to where my person is going!”

Continue practicing leash walking in your yard as in Steps 1 through 3 but by using a shorter leash. Eventually reduce the leash length to 6 feet.

Practice walking extra fast or slow as well as stopping and changing directions. Reward him if he can stay by your side during these challenges.

Begin to reward him less frequently for walking by your side in normal circumstances. Continue to reward him for staying by your side when you walk in a different manner than usual (extra fast or slow, stopping or changing directions) or you encounter a distraction like another animal or person.

Taking it to the Street:

On your neighborhood walks you will apply the same techniques as you did in your yard, but now there will be additional distractions and challenges such as friendly strangers, squirrels and other dogs. Consider using a front-attachment harness or head collar for extra control and bringing fresh meat or cheese for use as treats.

Say “let’s go” and start walking. If he forgets about you or pulls, say “let’s go” and turn and walk in the opposite direction. Reward him with treats when he walks beside you. Be sure to reward him with extra treats when it was extra difficult for him to pay attention to you. Don’t forget to give him permission for sniff breaks.

Challenge:

Outfit your dog in a standard harness attached to a 6 foot leash.

Hold your dog’s leash and toss a ball or treat 20 feet away from you and your leashed dog.

If he pulls toward the object, say “let’s go” and turn and walk in the opposite direction. If he walks beside you while you walk towards the object, allow him to continue towards it until he reaches it and can take it as his reward.

At first, you might want to use a longer leash or a less desirable object to make this easier for him.

Troubleshooting:

If your dog is crossing in front of you, stomp or shuffle your feet a bit to make your presence more obvious.

If he is lagging behind a great deal, he could be frightened or not feeling well, so use lots of encouragement instead of pulling him along. If he is lagging to sniff or to potty, simply keep walking but be sure to apply only gentle pressure on the leash. Don’t forget to use lots of rewards when he does walk with you.

If after you’ve practiced these steps, your dog seems to be alternating between walking beside you and pulling, stop rewarding coming back towards you after he pulls and instead concentrate on rewarding him for taking a larger number of consecutive steps by your side.

Heel:

Teaching him to “heel” is useful for short periods when you need him very close to you and attentive to you. It can be very helpful when walking him past distractions like other animals.

Begin practicing in your home. Place a treat in your fist and let him sniff it. Say “heel” and take a couple of steps while leading him along with the treat in your fist near your thigh. Praise and reward him with a treat when he is following your fist with his nose.

Now, practice having your dog follow your empty fist. Continue to praise and reward for every couple of steps that he follows your fist.

Continue practicing “heel” and increase your standards with each session. Your closed fist will remain as a “hand signal” for “heel”. Try this outside and in more distracting circumstances.

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What Are Hand Signals

Many dog trainers and owners train dogs using hand signals. At times, they use them instead of spoken commands.

What Are Hand Signals

Hand signals are sign language. You use your hands to signal to your dog what you want him to do, such as sit or lie down. There are some standard hand signals recognized by most dog trainers, but you can also create your own signals to train a dog.

Why Use Hand Signals

There are several reasons people use hand signals to train a dog, including:

• Dogs are excellent at reading body language. Dogs find it much easier to read what people are saying with their bodies than with spoken language. Many people find it easier to teach their dogs basic obedience commands by using hand signals before using spoken commands.
• It gives owners of deaf dogs a way to communicate with their pets. Deaf dogs obviously won't be able to respond to spoken commands. Hand signals allow their owners to train them just as you would any other dog.
• To compete in obedience events and dog sports. There are a number of instances where hand signals are easier to use or required when you are involved in competitive obedience or dog sports.
• It's fun! If you enjoy training your dog, this is just one more thing to add to his repertoire of skills. And just think how impressed your friends will be when you have your dog doing all sorts of tricks with just a few small movements of your hand.

How to Train a Dog Using Hand Signals

It's just as easy to train a dog using hand signals as it is verbal commands. The following steps can help you with your training:

• Get your dog's attention. Your dog must see the hand signal, so make sure he's looking at you.
• Give the hand signal. For example, if you're telling your dog "sit," you hold your hand palm out next to your body, and then bring the hand up until it's parallel to the floor.
• Follow the usual steps for training the dog the command you're working on. If you're training the dog to sit, use the opposite hand (the one not used to give the hand signal) to hold a treat over his head to lure him into a sit.

Troubleshooting

There are a few common mistakes people make when they train a dog with hand signals. Here are some tips for avoiding them:

• Train hand signals separately from verbal commands. It can be confusing for a dog if you change between giving hand signals and giving the verbal command during the same training session. Stick to one or the other until your dog is able to do both with no hesitation.
• Always use the hand signal first. Sometimes dogs know verbal commands before they learn hand signals. If this is the case with your dog, be sure to give the hand signal first. You can then give the verbal command, and then practice several times until your dog learns to perform the command with just the hand signal. If you give the verbal command first followed by the hand signal, your dog will have a tougher time making the connection between the hand signal and what you want him to do.

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Crate Training an Older Dog

Crate Training an Older Dog

Crate training is not an option in my house and that ideal started when I was 18 and living in Wyoming.  I had just gotten my first dog, a 9-month old male show Rottweiler and though I had heard of crate training, there was not a crate to be found in my small town.

My dog broke 3 windows, and swallowed 3 batteries before I became a believer.  I had the normal reservations at first, not wanting to cage my new dog but mostly crates were simply unavailable to me at that time.  Instead of continuing to risk my dog’s life, I ordered a crate from a mail order catalog and I have never turned back.

I have no doubts that, that crate saved my dog’s life and helped him to live to a ripe old age, without it he would have leaped out of another window and gotten hit by a car or he would have ingested something toxic.

Why Crate Training Older Dogs Is Necessary

Crates are essential and they keep dogs safe and content.  Crates allow you to travel with your dog Crate Training An Older Dogand they are fundamental to house breaking an older dog.  They also allow us owners to get a break from the constant supervision that comes with having a new dog in the family.

With appropriate and consistent crate training, your dog’s crate will become his home within his home, his safe haven and his happy place.

Crate training an older dog may be slightly more difficult than crate training a puppy, but it still fairly easy if you employ the right tactics.  Some dogs have had negative associations with crates in the past, and some simply have never seen a crate but most dogs are crate-able and benefit from crate training.

House Breaking An Older Dog

First select a crate that is an appropriate size.  Crates need to be large enough for an adult dog to comfortably stand up, turn around and move freely.

Next, determine which type of crate you would like to utilize.  Crates come in all shapes and sizes, from plastic crates that are darker inside to wire crates that allow the dog to see more, even steel or aluminum crates that are impossible to break out of and often used for police and working dogs.   Most often I have found that dogs prefer the darker environment of a plastic crate.

Dogs go into their crates to chill out and take naps, and the darker crate is more conducive to leaving the cares of the world behind.  Fearful dogs often dislike wire crates because they feel trapped while being visually over stimulated by the outside world.

Next it is time to acclimate your dog to his crate in a positive way.  I usually just put half of the crate on the floor or take the door off, while I toss in treats and make it a fun place.  Crate games are also critically important to make the new environment fun and favorable for happiness!

Crate Training ScheduleOnce your dog is feeling great about his crate it is time to get him on a crate training schedule.  Dogs prefer predictability, they thrive on a schedule.  I always schedule times throughout the day, even when I am home to work on the essentials of crate training and play crate games.  The most important aspect about crate training is making and keeping it fun!

Not all older dogs are housebroken, as a matter of fact the majority of dogs in a shelter have not been appropriately house trained.   Housebreaking an older dog becomes much easier with the utilization of a crate and good crate training principles.

Adult dogs already have the ability to hold their bladder for longer periods of time than most puppies, so housebreaking an adult dog using crate training can actually be easier than housebreaking a puppy, it is all about teaching them where it is appropriate to urinate and defecate, and utilizing the tools that can help you with the process! Crate training an older dog can be done and you will be glad you did!

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Why dog bites happen and how to stop dog biting

Approximately four and a half million people are bitten by dogs in the United States every year and one fifth of them end up needing medical attention for their wounds. Children are the most common victims with half of bite wound victims being under the age of thirteen. Children are much more likely to be severely injured by dog bites due to their small size and not being aware of how one should act around a dog. Most dog bites occur while interacting with familiar dogs thus the need to educate people and their children on how to avoid dog bites. It is important to understand that any dog has the capacity to bite and that by understanding the common reasons why dogs bite it is possible to prevent them.

5 main reasons dogs bite

1. Dog possessiveness can cause dog bites. Protection of property is a common issue and “property” in this case can be anything from toy, food, territory or even a human being. Guard dogs and herding breeds tend to be the worst offenders but this behavior can arise in any dog. Start training early to minimize this kind of possessive behavior. Teaching the “Leave it” command works well in preventing toy aggression. Food aggression can be avoided by teaching your dog to wait while you put their food down. Teach them to sit or lie down and then remove their food and then put it back. Approach the food bowl and occasionally add treats to the food so they understand that someone approaching the bowl is not a bad thing. Teach children not to bother dogs that are eating or enjoying a treat such as a bone.

2. Dog fear can cause dog bites. Fear is usually directed towards strangers such as veterinarians and postal workers or in unfamiliar situations. Never approach an unfamiliar dog and teach your children to do the same. Fear bites can occur when a dog is startled at home therefore teach children never to sneak up on a dog or bother a sleeping dog. Early socialization is important so that the young dog is exposed to many different people, animals and situations minimizing the risk of a phobia developing. For example, make your first visit to the vet a simple social visit to get a feel for the clinic and meet the veterinary staff. Leave some treats and a note in the mailbox asking your postal worker to give a treat to your puppy.

3. Dog pain can cause dog bites. Pain can cause the friendliest dog to bite. If your dog has hip dysplasia, severe otitis or any chronic injury, instruct your children to stay away from the sore areas and be gentle handling the dog. If your dog becomes snippy for no reason consider pain as a possible cause and schedule an appointment with your regular veterinarian for a physical.

4. Maternal instincts can cause dog bites. The most well trained dog can become a biter when she has puppies. Be aware of and respect the maternal instinct around a bitch that has whelped recently. Teach children not to approach a young puppy around the mother and use caution yourself when handling puppies. Make sure the mother and puppies have a place where they can feel safe with minimal distraction.

5. Prey drive can cause dog bites. Another instinct to be aware of and is sometimes triggered by running or cycling past a dog resulting in a chase. Be aware of your environment if you are jogging or cycling and if you see a roaming dog try to avoid crossing paths. If a dog does give chase then the best things to do is stop moving and stand tall facing the dog. Be aware of the dog but do not make eye contact which can be seen as a challenge by the dog. They may come up and sniff you but will eventually find you uninteresting and move on to find something else. If a dog knocks you over then curl up in a ball protecting your face hands and neck and be still. Teach children to do the same and set up a mock “stray dog” drill.

Dog Bite Warning Signs

Knowing the common triggers that cause dog bites will empower you to avoid these situations. Dog bites are always preceded by behavior that an astute observer can use as a warning and then take steps to reduce the dog’s stress or fear. Ears are typically pinned back, the fur along their back may stand up and you may be able to see the whites of their eyes. Yawning is not an attempt by the dog to appear casual but to show off their teeth and should be considered a warning sign as well. Non-social “stand-offish” behavior such as freezing in response to a touch or look followed by direct intense eye contact back from the dog is another clear sign that he may bite.

How to Stop Dog Biting from Happening

Dog bite prevention begins at home with your own dog by being a responsible dog owner. If you do not intend to breed your dog then having them spayed or neutered will help decrease the risk of bite related behaviors. Exercise and play with your dog on a regular basis to reinforce the human-animal bond and to expend excess energy that might otherwise be directed towards nervous energy. However, avoid aggressive games such as wrestling and tug of war which can lead to dominance issues. Train your dog well, they should know the basic commands such as sit, stay, come and leave it. Don’t allow your dog to roam free where they can be a danger to other people. Do try to socialize your dog and expose him to many different people and situations but take care not to overwhelm him. Keep your vaccinations up to date for a worst case scenario. In most states a dog can be destroyed if they bite someone and they are not up to date on vaccines. Seek professional help from your veterinarian if your dog shows any signs of aggression. If you have children take the time to educate them on how to act around dogs, what to watch for and what to do if a dog attacks.

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How to Communicate With Your Dog

Whether you have a new canine companion or you and your dog have been together for a while, it's helpful to know the meaning of your dog's communication signals so that you can adjust your own behavior as needed and so that you can be assured of your dog's feelings. Dogs make vocalizations and gestures using their face and body just as humans do in order to express their feelings. While some of these gestures can appear very similar to human gestures, in dogs, they can have very different meanings. In this article, you'll learn to interpret your dog's various messaging strategies and you'll learn how to communicate more effectively with your canine pal.

1. Understanding Dog Behavior

Observe your dog. Learning your dog's habits, mannerisms, and movements through observation will allow the process of understanding its communication behavior to feel more natural. There will be plenty of things it does that will make sense to you without explanation. Just as every person is unique, so is your dog.

• Be aware that much of a dog's language or communication techniques are subtle.
• By learning canine communication, you will be able to respond to any problems your dog expresses before a situation escalates. Not noticing small signs of stress or unhappiness can soon lean to more aggressive or distressed behaviors.
• Remember that this is a two-way learning process. Dogs have to learn our behavioral cues as well, and you should be careful about your own gestures and posture. Dogs also do not understand English. It is important that you teach your dog what you mean by "no" or "sit". Just saying "sit" over and over again won't make him learn it, and will make him think it's just part of the random nonsense you say during the day. Luring your dog into a sit position and then rewarding them heavily for doing that task will make him eager to sit, and then saying the word as he sits will make him connect the dots that the word "sit" means "put your butt on the floor".
• Note that a dog's ability to signal may be hampered by the breed in question. For example, if your dog has squat ears or a docked tail, some of the signals may not apply to him/her.

Know your dog’s response to eye contact. Consider how you feel when someone stares at you directly rather than using normal eye contact. Just as you find it confronting, dogs also feel confused and threatened by direct head-on staring because it is a threat stance for them. A dog that looks away in this situation is actually being polite and is seeking to avoid confrontation. Alternately, training your dog to make eye contact to communicate is extremely helpful for keeping his focus on you. 

• The most effective forms of dog training are positive reinforcement and clicker training. These are the most consistently proven type of training shown by scientists, veterinarians and animal behaviorists. Punishment is frowned upon because it is proven that dogs have very short memories, and likely do not connect situations like them pooping on the floor to your dissatisfaction. In fact, dogs do not feel guilt. Their owners simply stop being as mad when they "look guilty" and it becomes rewarding for both the owner and dog for the dog to offer signs of "guilt". The dog learns you dislike it when poop is on the floor and when you come home, they "act guilty" in order to appease you. They do not in fact relate their action of pooping to you being mad.
• Clicker training is the idea is to lure your dog into a position and indicate instantly they have done the right thing, and reward them for that behavior.
• Dog behavior is driven by the most rewarding or least punishing option they have in every situation. If the most rewarding option is to chew on your shoes, they will do so. If you reward them for not chewing on your shoes, they will choose to do that even when you are not around. In contrast, punishment or dominance suggests showing the dog who is boss, which simply results in the behavior being done when you are not around.
• Dogs are highly reward based and the dominance theory has been disproven. Dogs act in ways that are most rewarding, not based on trying to "dominate" you or another dog. Be the most rewarding thing in your dogs life and he will be eager to do whatever you say.
• Rolling over and exposing the belly is a gesture to appease you, and giving a belly rub serves as excellent reinforcement for this behavior.
• An exposed belly can also indicate passive resistance to a perceived threat.
• Mounting (or humping) can be a sign of stress in a dog, especially where a low-confidence dog is trying to establish allegiance with a higher-confidence animal.
• Dogs use a variety of gestures and postures to express discomfort, including excessive/misplaced sneezing or yawning, licking of the lips, avoiding eye contact, cowering, whale eye (seeing the whites or their eye) and a stiff body. When a dog is showing discomfort, the best thing to do is to stop what you are doing and not do it in the future. If you need your dog to be comfortable with something, make it very rewarding by giving them tons of treats and introducing them to the uncomfortable thing slowly. Soon your pooch will be offering to do those things for a treat!
• A dog can show many emotions with his tail. A wagging tail and wiggly butt mean pure joy. A slowly wagging tail means a cautious nature. A stiff tail held high is a sign of alertness, a low tail is a sign of content. A tucked tail means they are scared.

2. Reading Your Dog’s Body Language

Learn to interpret your dog's posture. The ways in which a dog holds its body can tell you a great deal about its mood and emotions. Many of the signals will be subtle and it can take some time to learn all of its expressions but it is well worth the effort.

Identify playful and affectionate behavior. Dogs communicate easy confidence and a desire to play through posture and body signals.

• Confident stance: A dog that is feeling confident will stand tall, have its tail up and probably wagging slowly, its ears will either be pricked up or relaxed, and it will generally look relaxed. Its eyes will have smaller pupils as they are also relaxed.
• Bowing: Facing you and with head and chest dipped low to the ground, front legs splayed out, and with rear end and tail up is a clear invitation to play. This is known as the "play bow". It can be mistaken by owners as an attack stance but it clearly denotes playtime.
• Hip swings: Hip swings or nudges are another sign of play.This involves the dog swinging around another dog and knocking them to the ground using the backside (the end of the dog without teeth!).When the dog's rear is presented to you, it is an indication of trust and depending on your dog, it might mean your dog wants a scratch. Wiggling its rear end is a sign of excitement and friendliness.
• If a dog is stretching with his butt in the air, front legs and paws stretched out in front, and head close to the ground, he is probably feeling playful.
• If your dog raises his/her paw to touch your knee or another part of your body, the dog wants to get attention, make a request or ask for something, or indicate a wish to play.The gesture begins as a puppy with kneading associated with obtaining mother's milk but becomes similar to that of offering a hand for a handshake – it's about connecting and friendship.
• Repeatedly pawing at the air is often used by puppies as an invitation to play.
• If a dog’s tail is in a neutral (level with body or slightly lower, he is most likely feeling secure and friendly.
• If your dog’s tail is fiercely wagging and his/her tail up, he/she is feeling mischievous and inclined to bother and annoy you or a fellow canine! It could also signal swatting away another animal.
• If your dog is slowly or slightly wagging his/her tail and watching you, he/she is relaxed but alert and is anticipating, ready to play.

Interpret discomfort or unease. Knowing when your dog is uncomfortable or feeling insecure can help you meet the animal’s needs and provide comfort and reassurance when necessary.

• Pacing can be a sign of nervousness, but it can also be a sign of excitement or boredom. If your dog gets plenty of exercise and entertainment, watch for other signs of nervousness that may accompany the pacing.
• A dog who feels threatened may raise his/her hackles. This tactic, which involves the raising of the strip of fur running down the middle of the dog's back, is a dog’s attempt to make itself appear larger than normal. It is not necessarily an aggressive stance but one of "high alert", making itself ready for whatever may come next. A scared dog can bite, so be extremely careful around a dog raising its hackles.
• A dog who is frightened or insecure may cower or crouch down. A slight crouch can denote submissiveness or nervousness. A similar stance can be an arched back, slightly bent legs, and the tail down (but not tucked under), and looking at what is concerning it.
• A dog raising one paw while keeping most of the body away from the person, animal or object creating uncertainty, and backing away is showing uncertainty or puzzlement. If the dog’s head is tilted to one side, this means that the dog is listening, or is uncertain and puzzled and is awaiting more information.
• A slow tail wag with the tail slightly lowered can indicate that the dog is confused and is asking for an explanation, or is investigating a non-threatening new object.
• If your dog’s tail is slightly lowered and still, he is alert and watching. If the tail is lowered and is barely moving, it can also indicate insecurity.
• If there is slight movement with a low tail, this can indicate that the dog is either sad or not feeling well.

Recognize warning signs of aggression. Aggression may lead to unwanted dog fighting or attacks. Recognizing early warning signs of aggression can help your deescalate a situation before it gets worse.

• A dog whose tail is lowered or tucked between its legs is showing anxiety, fear, and uncertainty.[9] Wagging can still occur in this situation, which can lead to the misunderstanding that the dog is happy. This position can also indicate a need for reassurance or protection.
• A dog that suddenly freezes in the middle of an action is feeling unsure of itself and would rather be left alone, or is preparing for an attack. This is commonplace when a dog is holding a bone; don't get between the dog and its bone!
• If your dog leans forward and appears very rigid, he most likely feels aggressive or threatened. This occurs in response to what the dog perceives as a threat or a challenge. The tail will usually be tucked down or under, or wagging in a quick and frantic manner.
• When a dog is considering an attack or feels threatened, the whites of his/her eyes will likely show as the dog looks at the perceived threat.
• A dog that was showing signs of aggression but who then shakes the head and shoulders may be signaling the end of a certain level of tension, such as being alert to a threat or an anticipated event that doesn't occur.

3. Recognizing Your Dog’s Face and Head Signals

Understand your dog's ear position. While we're not able to do much with our own ears, a dog's ears can be incredibly expressive. Be aware that dogs whose ears were clipped as a puppy may not have the full range of motion to express themselves through their ears.

• A dog whose ears are pricked forward or straight up is fully engaged in play, hunting, or concentration. This ear position can also indicate curiosity and can express the intent to do something, as the dog is turning to catch sounds. It is an obvious ear position in the early stage of a chase.
• A dog’s ears being flattened, sitting against the dog's head, indicates that the dog feels afraid or threatened. Ears that are forward but close to the head can also indicate aggression.
• A dog’s ears part way back but not flattened may be feeling unhappiness, anxiety, or uncertainty

Interpret your dog's eye signals. A dog's eyes express as much as human eyes do, and just as you learn to interpret people's eye signals, you can also learn to interpret your dog's. Here are some of the more common eye signals:

• Eyes wide open: this means that your dog is feeling alert, playful, and ready.
• Staring: staring indicates dominant, challenging behavior.
• Avoiding eye contact: a dog trying to look away from your face can be showing politeness, deference, or submission.
• Blinking or winking: these indicate that your dog is being playful.
• Narrowed eyes: this can indicate that your dog is feeling aggressive and is preparing to attack.This gesture may be accompanied by staring.

Watch your dog's face. Dogs often show how they are feeling with facial expressions. Understanding facial expressions can help you interpret your dog’s feelings and communicate with your canine companion.

• Smiling: believe it or not, dogs can smile. While it can be difficult to differentiate a smile from a snarl, checking other body language for signs of play or aggression can help you determine whether your dog is happy or feeling aggressive. If everything else adds up to a happy dog, then your dog is smiling, and this means it's happy and relaxed.
• Yawning: the meaning of a dog’s yawning is dependent on the context, just as it is with humans (humans yawn because we're tired, need more oxygen, we're feeling stressed or embarrassed, or we notice someone else yawning). For dogs, yawning appears to be contagious just as it is with humans. Indeed, if you yawn in front of your dog, it may interpret it either as you being stressed (in which case, it will likely turn away from you to give you some space), or it will respond in kind and yawn too.Dogs also yawn as a way to ease tension, to show confusion or when they feel slightly threatened especially when meeting new situations or new dogs or animals.
• Mouth position: a dog that has its mouth stretched back, closed or just slightly open, is showing that it is very stressed, in fear, or in pain.This may be accompanied by rapid panting. If its mouth is stretched back and open, it is a neutral or submissive sign. A dog that is alert and content will have its mouth closed or slightly open, with the teeth covered.
• Lip licking: if your dog licks its lips in combination with a yawn, this can be a clear indication that it is feeling stressed, under pressure, or facing a threat. It's a commonplace gesture shown by puppies around adults, but the behavior should not continue into adulthood. In mature dogs, licking can also be part of the dog's sexual behavior as it finds chemical signals on grass, carpet, and the genitals of other dogs. A dog that is licking another dog's lips is showing deferring behavior.
• Bared teeth: a dog whose lips are curled out and his teeth bared is signaling aggression and an intention to use the teeth for biting. This doesn't mean that every flash of teeth means aggression though, and you must take care to note the other elements. If the teeth are bared and there is no wrinkling of the muzzle, this is a warning and a sign of dominance and territorial defensiveness. If the lips are curled, the teeth are bared, the muzzle is wrinkled, and the dog is snarling, this indicates that the dog is angry and ready to fight, and there is every chance that it will bite.

4. Interpreting Your Dog’s Vocalizations

Listen to your dog. Barks, growls, yelps, and howls all carry their own unique language indicators that can take time to learn but are also an important part of understanding your dog's overall behavior. Many people think a bark is a bark is a bark. As you begin to really listen you will hear very distinct differences in the types of vocalizations.

• Note that a lack of barking or other dog noises can indicate a predatory state, aimed at not alerting the prey. This may also be accompanied by sniffing the air, keeping low, remaining rigid, ears flicking forward and backward to catch sounds, mouth closed and eyes wide open. Equally, no noise can indicate a submissive dog seeking approval. 

Recognize your dog’s barks. Dogs bark for different reasons, and observation and listening can help you learn to differentiate your dog's distinctive barks in different situations.

• A loud, high pitched, rapid bark can be either aggressive or territorial.
• A short, frequent guttural alert bark is aimed at warning the pack (wolf or human) of potential danger. It may be accompanied by snarling or growling.
• A crisp, short bark is usually a form of greeting from your dog.
• A high-pitched bark is often delivered when your dog is being playful. A short, high bark is a sign of friendliness, and may be accompanied by whimpering or yapping.
• A sudden high-pitched, sharp yelp may be an indication that your dog is in pain.
• A low-pitched, single or spaced out bark is another warning to back off.

Interpret your dog’s growls. Growling in a strange dog can be somewhat frightening, but not every growl is aggressive. Your dog may growl as part of play or as an alternative form of verbal communication to barking. You should use caution, however, with any dog growls because even a playing dog that has become too boisterous and carried away in play may still snap at a human who intervenes or gets too close.

• A low, quiet growl indicates that the subject of the growl needs to back off. It is a sign of assertiveness in a dominant dog.
• A low growl ending with short bark is the sound made when your dog is responding to threat. It can be a prelude to a snap.
• A medium growl, leading to or combined with bark indicates that your dog feels nervous, and possibly aggressive. You should proceed with caution.
• Low sustained growl or 'woofing' is an indication that your dog is feeling either anxious or suspicious.
• A low murmuring grumble is a lovely sign of contentment. Soft growling is generally play growling;assess it by taking in the context and the general stance of your dog. Play growling will often be accompanied by excited barking.

Understand why dogs howl. Knowing the different reasons that your dog may howl can help you respond to his/her needs. There are several different kinds of howling that have different meanings.

• A long, sustained howl indicates separation or loneliness. If your new dog or puppy was separated from other dogs to join your home, he/she may howl at first. Keeping his/her close to you can help his/her feel less lonely.
• A short howl with rising pitch generally signals that your dog is happy and/or excited.
• Baying is a hunting signal and can be common in breeds who are bred to hunt, even if your dog has never had any training as a hunting dog.
• A siren howl is a response to another howl or a sustained noise. You may notice that your dog howls in response to sirens going by your home. If your dog howls at night, he may be howling in response to other dog howling that is out of the range of human hearing.

Learn to differentiate whines and whimpers. Another type of vocalization given by dogs is whining. Like barking, howling, and growling, whining or whimpering may mean different things in different contexts.

• Short whines accompanied by short barks indicate that your dog is eager, curious, and excited.
• Short whimpers are often a sign of fear or anxiety.
• A low-pitched whine indicates that your dog is mildly anxious or submissive.
• A persistent, high-pitched whine can be a plea for attention, reflect intense anxiety, or indicate severe discomfort or pain.

5. Expressing Human Communication

Avoid unintentional signals. Dogs understand your language to some extent, but it's very important to understand how you appear to your dog and how some of your gestures may be causing your dog distress, fear, or worry, even though you're completely unaware of this. Always be aware that your dog is watching you, learning, and seeking to predict your routine, habits, and preferences. 

• Withdrawal of your gaze and your arms at the same time informs your dog that you have decided not to touch his/her anymore and he/she may respond negatively.
• Yawning can indicate to your dog that you're distressed and cause his/her to move away from you. It can be a good idea to cover your yawn around your dog if he/she seems to respond negatively to the action.

Prevent your dog’s discomfort. Some actions that we see as normal or loving do not translate well from “human language” to “dog language.” Avoiding activities that make dogs uncomfortable can help strengthen your relationship with your pet.

• Staring at your dog can be viewed as a threat. Some trainers used to believe that a dog looking away from a stare was showing disobedience, but it is better understood now as being a sign of politeness or submission.
• Punishing or reacting negatively to signs of fear in a dog will serve only to increase the dog's sense of fear and does nothing to instill better behavior from our perspective. Do not interpret signs of discomfort or fear as signs of guilt.
• Many dogs do not like being patted directly on the head. However, this is something a dog usually needs to learn to tolerate. You should never pat a strange dog on the head until you're more familiar with it, but if you live in an urban environment where people are likely to want to pet your dog, early training (with treats) to help your dog tolerate head patting is essential.
• Hugging and cuddling is often another action that dogs do not like. Nature has programmed the dog to believe that being held in close proximity means one of two things: one, that it is trapped as prey, or two, that it is being mounted. Since neither of these actions brings on happy responses, a dog that is not used to frequent cuddling and hugging may respond by fleeing, wriggling, and snapping. If this is the case with your dog, be patient and take a gradual approach to getting it used to a loving embrace. Ensure that children who hug dogs always keep their faces away from the dog, and monitor the dog's reaction so that you can intervene quickly if needed.
• Dogs are social animals and need contact, so you should avoid making them feel overly isolated. The first nights of having a puppy in the home are essential. Try to stay near the puppy (such as having its crate in your room), then gradually move his/her to where he/she will sleep permanently. This will reassure the dog that all is well. Do not share your bed with a dog unless you want this to become a permanent arrangement. Doing this creates a permanent expectation in your puppy's mind.

Clarify intentional commands. Being clear, consistent, and concise with your commands and direct communication with your dog can help your dog understand what you want him to do. Most dogs want to please their owners, so they will try to adapt their behavior to your expectations.

• Always repeat commands using the same words and tone so that your dog knows his name and understands that he should be listening to you.
• Alter your tone when communicating different emotions to your dog. Dogs have instincts that help them discern if we are happy with them or upset with them. If you smile and tell your dog good dog in a happy tone, he will know that he has done something right. Likewise, if you correct him in an angry tone, he will know that he has done something wrong. This is an important thing to take in consideration when training.
• Remember that dogs forget things frequently. However, they will remember things that they have been trained about, where certain things and people are, who you are and who their friends are, getting praised, and surprising things (good or bad) that happen.
• Shouting at your dog, gesticulating wildly, or shaking "weapons" like a broomstick at your dog will seem like crazy behavior and does nothing to change your dog's behavior. It can, however, upset an already insecure and fearful dog even more. Spare your energy and stay calm. Keep your communication tactics clear and reasoned.
• Keep this in mind while correcting a dog. If you come home to a destroyed sofa, yelling at the dog will not achieve anything, as the dog will not make the connection between the destroyed sofa and the correction.

Develop mutual communication. Having a 2-way communication relationship with your dog will help both of you maintain a healthy relationship. Keeping the lines of communication open and showing your dog that you understand his/her will help you know when to step in if something is wrong.

• Research how dogs communicate with each other. Modeling your own communication strategy on dog-to-dog communication can lead to more successful communication.

Tips

1. Take time to learn about your own dog's messaging. As a unique individual, while much of what is written here will be applicable, your dog will also display his/her own forms of messaging and it is through spending time with your dog that you will get to know his/her best.
2. Be sure to repeat commands in the same tone, or your dog will be confused.
3. Always be expressive in your voice.
4. It is important to note your dog's behavior around other species than humans and other dogs. When introducing other pets into the house, such as cats and rabbits, your dog's reactions are an important indicator as to the success or otherwise of the introduction and being ready to intervene quickly if things get out of hand can mean the safety of either animal is assured. Gradual introductions, careful supervision, and patience all tend to be required when introducing a new pet around a dog that has already established his/her place.
5. Remember, every dog is different. If your dog’s personality is more passive, you may have different results than those that are stated here.
6. There are many more subtle signs that dogs use to show their anxiety, stress, interest, or other moods. Get to know these signs to help you predict a dog's reactions.
7. Be consistent with what you allow your pet to do. For example, decide whether or not the dog is allowed to get on the couch and stick to your decision.
8. If your dog lives in an apartment or doesn't have a yard in which to relieve himself, start training the dog to go pee or poop on "command". This is helpful in poor weather conditions, or busy mornings. Teaching the dog to ring a bell hanging from the doorknob when he needs to go outside is also helpful.
9. Never pick your dog up in a way that might be uncomfortable.
10. Do not feed your dog at the same time you eat. If possible, don't feed him/her in the same room as where you eat. This will help prevent begging for scraps. Also, be consistent on doing this. Just like allowing him on the couch.

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